198 



THREE TEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



Now and then we saw a most amicable company of dogs and 

 " gallinazos," or buzzards, feasting on the carcass of a mule or 

 ass, that had dropped down and died by the way. I have seen 

 these birds attack the body of a mule before the breath had 

 entirely left it, and in the course of a few hours leave nothing 

 but the skeleton ! They are the only scavengers in Peru. The 

 law protects them from molestation ; a fine being imposed on 

 any person who may wantonly kill one of the tribe. 



The entrance into Lima is through a huge gate. There is a 

 large centre arch, and a smaller one on each side, which are 

 closed at night with massy doors, correspondent to the arches 

 in size. In 1825, some eulogistic sentences on Bolivar were 

 written over the great entrance, but in 1827, the tide of popu- 

 lar feeling having turned against him, his name was blotted 

 out, and that of La Mar substituted ; the eulogy, however, 

 remaining unchanged. In 1829, the popularity of this chief 

 dwindled away, and his name and eulogy are now washed 

 over with lime ; — sic transit gloria mundi. 



On the left side of the gate is a small building, occupied by 

 the officers of the Resguardo — that department of the custom 

 house which is constantly on the alert to detect and prevent illi- 

 cit trade. Here, all baggage, and every package of goods, are 

 examined, unless accompanied by a " guia,^' or permit, from the 

 Aduana, or custom house. Here also a toll is collected for 

 every laden mule or ass that passes to and from Lima. 



Two long mud walls stand on the sides of the street, or ra- 

 ther avenue, which leads into the <'City of the Free.^' At 

 about a hundred yards from the gate, it terminates in a street, 

 called "La calle del Callao.'' The first thing we remarked, 

 was the mean appearance of the houses, and the heavy, closed 

 balconies, jutting out in front. At the corners, are two rude 

 wooden figures, painted red, placed about twelve feet above 

 the ground, with a representation of flames curling round them. 

 These half figures have the hands clasped in the attitude of 

 prayer. They are termed "dnimas,'^ or souls, and are intend- 

 ed as mementos of the torments of purgatory. Similar figures 

 are common in all parts of the city. On the dead wall of a 



