216 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



morning, and passing to that of the Escribanos, many inter- 

 esting groups and figures present themselves, and what is re- 

 markable, from one end of the year to the other the picture is 

 always the same. All Sundays and feast days are alike; and 

 all working days strikingly resemble each other ; except when 

 there is some popular exhibition or religious procession going 

 forward, and then it is more crowded. 



The first figure that called attention was that of a stout negro, 

 in full bottomed, dark green breeches, open at the knee, show- 

 ing that his linen drawers were embroidered and pointed like 

 a rufiie. Before him stood a table, on which was spread a piece 

 of bayeta — a species of baize — the long furze of which he was 

 combing with a card, such as is used with us for carding wool 

 and cotton. 



The shopkeepers were seen, when not occupied by cus- 

 tomers, seated on the counters, neatly dressed, swinging their 

 legs and smoking cigars ; or sometimes a half dozen were list- 

 ening to the news from an infant gazette, read in a monotonous 

 tone. When a lady entered to purchase, she uncovered her 

 face, though not always, and the shopman generally served her 

 with a cold indifierence that argued a great love for dolce Jar 

 nUnte, This feeling, I am told, has been known to gain such 

 influence at times, that a shopman, rather than move, has de- 

 nied having goods which were seen upon his shelves ! Strangers 

 generally pay doubly for all they buy in Lima. I have known 

 thirty dollars received for an article, of which the price asked 

 was a hundred. About ten o'clock, the shopmen are seen be- 

 hind their counters, taking breakfast, which usually consists of 

 some stew, bread, a basin of broth, followed by a cup of cho- 

 colate and a glass of water. 



The tables along the colonnades present a number of handy- 

 craftsmen of every variety of caste, making silk cords, tassels, 

 gold and silver epaulettes, sword knots, buttons, &c. 



Presently we met a canonigo. Like all of his class, he wore 

 a long black cloak, black small clothes and silk stockings, with 

 large shoes and buckles. At a distance his hat resembled a 

 great black cylinder. Close at his heels were two or three 

 boys in black suits, relieved by a blue sash worn over the 



