220 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



chocolate, by those who care not for the mode in which they 

 are made. Still another kind of refreshment is found in the 

 picante, which consists of various kinds of butcher's meat, 

 made into a stew, spiced and peppered as hotly as possible. 

 After partaking of it, the throat is flooded with iced chicha, to 

 quench the flame which the morsel excites. 



From sunset till eleven and twelve o'clock at night, in the 

 summer season particularly, men and women are strolling from 

 table to table. The women, with their faces hidden under the 

 shawl, perform the part of maskers in the scene. Many curi- 

 ous adventures and anecdotes are related of the feigned liaisons 

 d'amours which the Limanians have sustained, in order to 

 be invited to partake of refreshments at the expense of some 

 uninitiated wight. Women have been known to pretend to the 

 acquaintance of a gentleman accidentally met in the plaza, (and 

 masked as they are, it is impossible to recognise them,) till 

 they have succeeded in taking ices at his expense, then throw- 

 ing ofi'the disguise, express their astonishment that he was " tan 

 inocente" — so simple, as not to have detected them. The his- 

 tory of the intrigues and deceptions practised in this plaza, 

 would form a volume of much interest to a curious reader. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Saya y Manto— Scenes in the street — Police — Market — Cherimoya — ^Palta— 

 Granadilla — Cafes. 



The walking dress of the ladies of Lima, presents a very cu- 

 rious and unique appearance to the stranger who beholds it 

 for the first time. Yet after a little use, it is rather pleasing 

 than disgusting to the eye, when prettily worn. For several 

 days after my arrival, my chief amusement in the morning, be- 

 fore breakfast, was to stand in the puertacalle and observe the 

 ladies in saya y manto, as they passed to and from mass. This 



