NOTICES OF PERU. 



221 



dress consists of two parts. The saya, the lower part, is a silk- 

 en petticoat, made in folds or plaits, extending from bottom to 

 top, and of nearly the same breadth above and below. It sits 

 closely to the figure, and being elastic, from the manner in 

 which it is sewed, manifests the contour of the figure, and the 

 whole muscular play of the body and limbs. The manto is a 

 hood of crimped silk, cut bias or diagonally, to give it elas- 

 ticity. The bottom part of it is gathered full by a drawing 

 string, and, encircling more than half of the body, sits low 

 enough down to hide the top of the saya. This hood, drawn 

 up from behind, over the shoulders and head, and covering the 

 elbows and arms, is folded over the face in such a manner as 

 to conceal all but one eye. One hand is occupied in holding 

 the fold in its place in front, while the other is carried across 

 the breast, bearing sometimes a reticule or pocket handker- 

 chief, and at others, a rosary or cross. When worn open, leav- 

 ing the face uncovered, as is often the case, the position of the 

 hands is nearly the same. The fore-finger rests upon the cheek, 

 and the elbow appears supported by the hand of the other side, 

 giving an air of pensiveness to the whole figure. Being drawn 

 tightly under the elbows, the manto is kept tense over the 

 head. With this dress the comb is not always worn. The saya 

 is always short enough to display the foot and ankle, which are 

 set off in white silk stockings, and satin slippers, of every co- 

 lor. Silk shawls, of every dye, beautifully embroidered and 

 fringed, fall from the bust in front ; while behind they are con- 

 cealed in the manto, forming a bunch on the back, rather in- 

 jurious to the appearance. The sayas are of every color, but 

 the mantos are invariably black. 



This costume, though of ancient origin, was not worn in the 

 beginning of the eighteenth century. Then, a dress called the 

 Faldellin was in fashion, and was occasionally seen till about 

 the year 1800. It was a short petticoat, made very full, and 

 trimmed with a profusion of lace. 



San Martin was so much opposed to the saya y manto, that 

 he issued a "bando" prohibiting ladies from appearing in the 

 streets in that dress, but to no purpose. It offers too many ad- 

 vantages to the intrigante^ and too many conveniences for the 



