264 THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



dozen female visiters. Such a flirting of fans, (the Spectator 

 could not have instructed his pupils better in this art) — such a 

 mutual scrutiny of dress — such adjusting of shawls, is not easily- 

 described. One thrusts forward the point of her foot — and they 

 have pretty feet — and another looks over her shoulder. Every 

 thing is formal and cold ; I have never seen such heartless re- 

 ceptions given to friends in any other place, but this gradually 

 wears off in a few minutes; the conversation then becomes 

 sprightly and gay, sprinkled with flashes of wit and humor. 

 The usual subjects discussed, are the theatre, bull-bait, or Ala- 

 meda, with a sufficient dash of personal scandal and gossip, to 

 render it piquant. The history of some friend's accouchement, 

 with all the details, is a prolific theme, particularly if it happen 

 to be a little out of the common order, for then all the miracu- 

 lous cases are brought to mind, and related by the elder ladies. 

 In these discussions, the youngest children take part, and speak 

 quite knowingly of things, vvhich in our country are hidden 

 arcana, only revealed to the initiated. That squeamishness 

 complained of by a late notorious traveller in the United States, 

 is unknown ; the portrait drawn of Miss Clarissa and Mr. Smith, 

 could have no original in Lima. Whatever is found in nature, 

 or nature's functions, is not an improper topic for a lady's ear, 

 if discreetly managed. If any thing be said which oversteps 

 the bounds of delicacy, a lady generally exclaims, Gua ! que 

 listira !" but does not blush, nor veil her face with her fan. In- 

 deed, indelicate allusions give a piquancy to conversation which 

 is agreeable to many. Another all absorbing subject is health. 

 It is doleful to listen to the croakings of the old women, when 

 they chronicle their aches and pains, or recommend to their 

 friends some quack remedy, which has produced miraculous 

 effects in their own cases. As self-interest is sometimes touched, 

 the losings and winnings of friends at gaming tables, are heard 

 of with delighted admiration. Literature is out of the question ; 

 books were only intended to supply the place of conversation. 

 I have seldom heard a Peruvian lady say she had read any 

 book whatever. I knew a gentleman who loaned a lady a trans> 

 lation of Ivanhoe, and asked her, at the end of three months, 

 how she liked it. She replied ; " I have not yet opened it — I 



