27S 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



either seated or promenading, are hundreds of sayas y mantos, 

 watching the scene before them, while gentlemen scrutinize 

 the cautious glance of that single eye, and arching black brow 

 contrasting with the forehead, to discover if possible who the 

 mistress may be, but she laughs at their curiosity, and sets it 

 at defiance. He who cannot admire a beautiful woman with 

 all his five senses, cannot estimate the greatest and most per- 

 fect work of nature. It is thrilling to your man of sensibility 

 to behold the soft motion of these ^^tapadas," as those are 

 termed who walk with only one eye discovered. There is an 

 ease and grace in the step not easily portrayed ; such sylph.- 

 like steps, such figures, such laughing eyes, 



And such sweet girls — I mean such graceful ladies, 

 Their very walk would make your bosom swell j 

 I can't describe it, though so much it strike. 

 Nor liken it — I never saw the like !" 



At sunset, the whole crowd streams towards the city. The 

 bridge is lined with gentlemen waiting to catch one more 

 glance from some eye, which they fancy their penetration has 

 discovered. It is vain ; the mask is too perfect. The stream 

 pours into the portdl, and thence diffuses itself through the 

 several streets leading from the plaza. 



Those who do not take an airing in the alameda, generally 

 resort to the Coliseo de los Gallos, or cock-pit. It was erected 

 in 1762; and in 1790, paid to the government annually for a 

 license, 7,010 dollars, which were distributed among various 

 institutions of charity and education in the city. 



The Coliseum is an amphitheatre, with an arena fifty feet in 

 diameter, surrounded by nine benches rising one behind the 

 other, and above, by a tier of twenty-nine galleries or boxes, 

 (including that of the judge,) supported on wooden pillars, 

 and accessible by flights of stairs on the outside of the building, 

 which stands in a large patio. Opposite to each other are doors 

 opening into the arena, by which the fowls are introduced. 

 The price of admission is two reales, but the seat is an extra 

 charge of one real in the pit, and four in the boxes.* 



* In 1822, a decree was issued, abolishing the cock-pit, and annulling the 

 contract of its manager with the Spanish government, which was dated 1804. 



