284 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



and the president of the republic joined in to fill up the living 

 stream, that moved towards the Alameda del Acho. Towards 

 that point rolled gay calesas, accompanied by gaily dressed 

 equestrians ; the street was thronged with mulattoes and ne- 

 groes, tapadas and priests — all going to see ^^os toros'^ — the 

 bulls ! 



Along the street leading to the Alameda, armed lancers from 

 the president's guard, were stationed about a hundred yards 

 apart, gazing quietly on the passing crowd, with hands folded 

 over the pommel of the saddle, and lance resting on the foot and 

 reposing against the shoulder. Great earthen jars of chicha 

 were leaning against the trees, here and there, from which ne- 

 gresses and mulattoes, bedizened with jasmine, were pumping 

 through great canes, <'the nectar of Peru," and dispensing it 

 to groups of the lower orders, standing around them. The 

 sounds of harp and guitar, and fandango-footing, streamed from 

 houses in the vicinity. It was a heartfelt holy-day, for all class- 

 es delight in the spectacle of bull-baiting. 



The Plaza del Acho, which is enclosed in a square, is a large 

 amphitheatre, capable of containing in the boxes, and on the 

 benches which surround it, rising one above the other, not less 

 than twelve thousand persons. The boxes and benches are sup- 

 ported on brick pillars, and are accessible by narrow stairs 

 from the outside. The arena is about four hundred fept in dia- 

 meter, surrounded by a barrier seven feet high, through which 

 are horizontal slits a foot broad, opening into the pit beneath 

 the benches. In the middle of the arena, just far enough apart 

 to allow a man to pass between them, are several posts planted 

 in the form of three rays diverging from a centre. At one point 

 are a large and a small door, side by side, opening into the pen 

 where the bulls are kept, and over them is the box of the Pre- 

 fect of Lima, who presides over the exhibition, and bestows 

 the rewards on those who distinguish themselves in the fight. 

 Opposite, but a little to the right, is a large box, occupied by 

 the president and his suite, and to the left is a large door through 

 which the slaughtered bull disappears from the arena. 



About a quarter before three, the place seemed full, yet peo- 

 ple were still pouring in. The ladies appeared in their usual ex- 



