294 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



and silver Lama. At midnight, Te Deum laudamus was 

 chanted, the bells rang a merry peal, and rockets were fired 

 from the church steps. At this signal, numerous parties and 

 groups that had been wandering about the square, anxiously- 

 waiting the hour to break their fast, seated themselves at dif- 

 ferent tables, and fell to work on the good things that had been 

 spread before them during the evening. From that time till 

 daylight, for the saying is, "nadie duerma en noche buena" 

 — nobody may sleep on Christmas eve — the plaza is a scene 

 of feasting ; while in the houses of the higher classes, suppers 

 are spread at twelve o'clock, and the remainder of the night 

 is spent in dancing and gambling. 



Christmas day is devoted to amusement, and as it is sum- 

 mer, many parties are made for rides to the country, and some 

 spend the whole holy-days at Miraflores or Chorillos. The 

 alameda in the afternoon is thronged with people, and in the 

 morning presents a scene similar to that of a Sunday. At 

 night there is an exhibition of fireworks, provided at the ex- 

 pense of the cabildo. 



During the summer months, from December to April in- 

 clusive, many paseos or excursions of pleasure are made to 

 difierent points in the neighborhood of the city. Most of the 

 wealthy families resort to Chorillos or Callao for the benefit of 

 sea bathing. Those gentlemen who are detained in the city 

 by business during the week, generally leave Lima on Satur- 

 day afternoon, and remain with their families until Monday 

 morning. 



In the month of January, I accompanied a party of gentle- 

 men to Chorillos, and passed several days in that place. We 

 set ofi" about three o'clock on Saturday afternoon, arrayed in 

 ponchos, and large straw hats to protect us from the sun, and 

 armed with pistols to secure us against the " saltead&res," or 

 highwaymen, that at this season generally infest the road. 

 They have been less numerous, however, during the last two 

 years, than formerly. These saltead&res are a most ungenerous 

 set of thieves ; for, not satisfied with horse, purse, and valuables, 

 they generally leave their victims without any other covering 

 for their skins than their shirts ! I know, however, of an in- 



