298 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC, 



leakage over the city instead of dissolving in rain. This is 

 probably an electrical phenomenon, which is not yet well un- 

 derstood. The same fact occurs occasionally at Callao, though 

 the distance of either place from Lima does not exceed eight 

 miles. 



During the war of the revolution, while Rodil occupied the 

 castles of Callao, Chorillos, though only a small Indian town^ 

 with some few indifferently built houses, which are termed 

 ranchos and barrdcas," was the port of Lima. The harbor is 

 a roadsteady only protected by the Morro Solar : a heavy swell 

 is constantly rolling in from the southward, the anchorage is 

 not good, the landing is bad, and vessels ride very uneasily at 

 their moorings. 



I spent the month of February at Callao. The place was 

 probably more gay than usual, in consequence of the president 

 and his lady being there to take advantage of the sea-baths. 

 The terttilias were similar to those at Chorillos, though not so 

 numerously attended, for neither General Gamarra nor his lady 

 is very popular. They were attended, of course, by a set who 

 are more or less dependent on their pleasure for office. 



The presidenta, as she is titled, is rather a large and fine 

 looking woman, but of too much embonpoint for beauty. She 

 has a high, expanded forehead, and an intelligent face. Her 

 manners are masculine, and far from graceful. Her accom- 

 plishments are those af a man. She shoots a pistol with great 

 accuracy of aim, wields the broadsword with much dexterity, 

 and is a bold, undaunted rider on horseback. Her chief amuse- 

 ment at the tertdlias is playing chess. She never dances. She 

 is a native of Cuzco, and daughter of a Patriot general, and it 

 may be said, that she was literally educated in the camp. She 

 is now about thirty years of age, and is said to be rather a shrew 

 in disposition, and pays great attention to politics f indeed, 

 some affirm, that General Gamarra is indebted to her talents^ 

 for retaining the presidency so long as he has. 



Pic-nic parties are sometimes formed on the point beyond 

 the castles, but the place is entirely without the shelter of 

 trees. The chief attraction to that quarter is the fine situatioa 

 for bathing. 



