312 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Day of All Saints — Pantheon — Responsos — Mode of burial — Obsequies — Col- 

 lecting- alms for masses — Day after All Saints — Funeral expenses — A patri- 

 otic curate — Rapacity of curates — Cofradia or burying company — Marriage 

 ceremony — Marriage fees — Difficult for foreigners to marry in Peru — Clan" 

 destine marriage. 



November 1st — Dia de todoslos Santos — Day of all Saints. 



The streets were quiet during the morning ; all business was 

 stopped ; the living only directed their thoughts to the man- 

 sions of the dead. The churches were all open, and many a 

 beautiful say a entered and knelt before the altar of the patron 

 saint, to breathe a salve for the rest of some departed friend. 



Nevertheless, the plaza, which smiles even when blood 

 stains its stones, wore its holy-day appearance. The botoneros 

 were not seen ; their places were occupied by the tables and 

 cases of the mercachifles, and their etalage of small wares. 

 Officers in gay and costly uniforms, mustaches combed and 

 head erect, sauntered up and down the portdles. Many a 

 laughing eye glanced from under the manto, and many a heart 

 inquired what eye it was, but in vain ; the silken dressed feet 

 still moved with the light and measured step. The aguad6res 

 disputed and laughed, and filled their water at the pila. The 

 bells tolled, and misas ascended. The suertero still cried in a 

 broken tone su — 6r — te, and the priests moved along and beg- 

 ged alms for the repose of those departed, and their liberation 

 from purgatory. 



About four o'clock in the afternoon, all the world were in 

 motion towards the Pantheon — the common resting place of 

 the dead. Before we reached the gate of the city, we were 

 accosted by two women, sitting at a chapel door, who held out 

 small silver plates, containing a few reales and medios ; with 

 smiling faces they begged un mediocito para mi Seiiora del 

 Carmen" — a medio for my Lady Carmen. Near the gate was 



