340 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



Occasionally there falls a passing shower ; generally, how- 

 ever, there is nothing but a garua or mist during the winter. 



This is the only one of the many towns that I have visited 

 in South America, in which there is no billiard table. 



With some labor, vessels may obtain here very good water. 

 There is a narrow stream running along the northern side of 

 the town, planted on either bank with young willows ; to ob- 

 tain water, it is necessary, (on account of rollers and the rocky 

 nature of the shore), to roll the casks for a considerable dis- 

 tance to the watering place. Provisions are found, of the same 

 kinds, and at about the same rates, as at Lima, though not so 

 abundant. Beef, however, is an exception. The only butcher's 

 meat usually to be met with in the market, is mutton. The 

 fruits and vegetables of this valley are the same as those of the 

 capital. The fertility of this part of Peru is much lauded by 

 the Spanish writers. It is stated, on the authority of Garcilaso, 

 that in 1556, there grew a radish so large, that five horses 

 were sheltered under the shade of its leaves ! 



With the exception of agues, that prevail during one season 

 of the year, the place is healthy, and it is fortunate for the in- 

 habitants that it is so, for the curate is the only man who pre- 

 tends to any knowledge of the healing art ! 



About a mile from the town, on the south side of the morro, 

 is a cemetery of the ancient Peruvians. There is one path to it 

 over the hill, which is somewhat laborious, and another round 

 the base of " Arica Head," which is only practicable when the 

 tide is low. 



On the side of the hill are found the graves of this injured 

 people, indicated by hillocks of upturned sand, and the num- 

 bers of human bones bleaching in the sun, and portions of bo- 

 dies, as legs and arms, or a hand or foot, with the dry flesh 

 still adhering, scattered over the surface. The graves have been 

 a great deal dug, and many bodies carried to Europe by travel- 

 lers. Some boys who were playing about the place, told us that 

 an <'Ingl6s" in Tacna, had a large collection of them, which 

 he is constantly increasing ; for a pair of these mummies, when 

 perfect, he pays a doubloon. 



