366 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



ing, but on requesting the mayordomo" to give us some 

 bread and cheese, he replied, ^< pan no hay, my patron" — there 

 is no bread, my patron. Disappointed in this, we found, in 

 one of the ranchos, a copper pan, half full of broiled ribs of 

 pork, and a gourd of boiled corn, which the slaves had pre- 

 pared for their suppers ; we partook of the food thus thrown 

 in our way, and when our appetites were appeased, the mu- 

 latto brought us animals to proceed to Nepena, whither he vo- 

 lunteered to be our guide. 



It was dark when we mounted on two donkeys and a mule, 

 the guide riding with me on the latter animal. The road or 

 path wound in almost every direction through a <<monte," 

 sometimes plunging into close thickets, and again emerging 

 into open spots, with here and there a lone algarrobo, or thorn 

 bush, that cast a long shade over the ground, as the moon was 

 just rising. The distance is two leagues, and it was nine o'clock 

 when we entered the streets of the village of Nepena. 



When we rode into the plaza, every thing was still, save a 

 party of men and women who were singing and dancing to the 

 tinkling of a guitar on the opposite side of the square. The 

 moon was shining clear and bright. We alighted at the house 

 of the curate, for whom we had a letter of introduction, but 

 he was not at home. Several persons came forward to see us, 

 and we learned with satisfaction from one of them, that Mr. 

 C— had returned the previous evening from the " Sier- 

 ra." He soon made his appearance, and carried us off to the 

 house of his friend, Don Jose Manuel, where we were receiv- 

 ed with the kindest hospitality. Don Jose was engaged at a 

 game of " solas" with two or three friends ; his lady, and 

 some of her female acquaintances, were chatting under the 

 corridor, in front of the house. 



We were quickly supplied with the means of ablution and 

 abstersion, though we had no handmaiden to perform for us 

 these agreeable operations. A plentiful supper of steaks and 

 eggs was spread for us, and in consideration of our fatigue, we 

 were permitted to retire early. 



The next morning we walked over the whole pueblo before 



