372 



THREE YEARS IN THE PACIFIC. 



it is ^ triste,' and the place so in ruins, is not so pleasing — it i§ 

 not as it was before it was destroyed by George Anson and 

 Cocheran" — and he expressed something more by a shrug of 

 the shoulders, which, however, it is impossible to interpret. He 

 told us that he came from a place seventy leagues in the inte^ 

 rior, and spoke in enthusiastic terms of the richness of its soil, 

 and its products. 



At this moment, two girls, who had been bathing, came 

 dripping from the sea ; one, less than ten years old, was entire- 

 ly naked ; the other, about thirteen, who was in a cotton dress, 

 smiled, and saluted us with an inclination of the head, and 

 hastily threw a woollen poncho over her shoulders. The young- 

 er one hung down her head, and by her averted face, and side- 

 long gait, evinced a degree of modesty at thus appearing before 

 strangers in a state of nudity. The bon vivant laughed, and 

 said, ^'Que! tu no tienes nada que tapar — si fuistes hombre, 

 entonces si." — The little girl, however, did not agree with 

 him, and glided behind her sister in the poncho, and soon slip- 

 ped on her dress. 



A negress now announced dinner, and the good people in- 

 vited us to join them ; but, being past our dining hour, we de- 

 clined ; we took seats, however, in front of the rancho. 



A table, about two feet square, and a foot and a half high, 

 was placed under the shade of the projecting roof. It was co- 

 vered with a white cloth, and laid with several silver plates, 

 and heavy forks and spoons of the same metal. The pillions 

 were spread round, and the good people seated themselves upon 

 them. According to the general custom, a large dish was set 

 in the centre of the table, from which every one helped him- 

 self. The first was of boiled beef, dressed with a salad of toma- 

 toes and onions. A variety of dishes succeeded it in turn, 

 amongst which were rice, Quinoa, and potatoes, dressed with 

 aji, which is one of those common mixtures termed picdntes; 

 this one is termed "papas eon aji." 



The children were seated round a pillion ; in its centre was 

 placed a silver plate, out of which they fed themselves with 

 their fingers. About three yards from the table was the 

 kitchen, where the various materials of the meal were cooking 



