THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 



207 



obstruct the general scenery as little as possible. The 

 most convenient position is close to the stable offices^ as 

 that will facilitate the introduction of manure and the 

 removal of rubbish without injury to the walks or 

 dfessed grounds. It is desirable that the site should 

 be warm and sheltered^ with a sunny exposure and a 

 dry subsoil. If the proprietor desires to have fine 

 waU-fruitSj proper waUs must be built for their culti- 

 vation. These should not exceed twelve feet in height^ 

 otherwise they wiU often be injurious to the scenery of 

 the place. The boundary waU may occasionally form 

 part of the enclosure of the garden. Walls formed or 

 lined with brick are the most suitable for the training 

 and culture of fruit-trees. Stone is also a good mate- 

 rial, when formed of a proper size, and carefudly dressed 

 and well built. On steep declivities the walls may be 

 made the facings of terraces, the intermediate surfaces 

 of which are occupied with vegetables. Of the other 

 buildings connected with the kitchen garden, the melonry 

 and pine-pit should form a separate compartment either 

 in the interior of the garden or attached to it: the 

 vineries and peach-houses may occupy suitable places on 

 the walls, or may stand in detached situations, as may 

 be found most convenient. The latter forcing-houses 

 may sometimes be erected with propriety in the dressed 

 grounds, and along with the greenhouse may form a 

 connecting link between these grounds and the kitchen 

 garden. The favourite form of the kitchen garden is 

 the square or parallelogram, and these are more compact 

 than most other forms, and have many conveniences; 

 but it would be injudicious to disfigure the internal 

 scenery of a place by a servile adherence to any parti- 

 cular plan, when one perhaps equally good, though not 



