Chap. II. 



LOVE OF DKESS. 



37 



of manufacture. Du Halde estimates the numbers 

 engaged in this operation at sixty thousand. I ob- 

 served a great number employed in the reeling 

 process, and others were busily engaged with the 

 beautiful embroidery for which this part of China is 

 so famous. 



The people of Hang-chow dress gaily, and are 

 remarkable amongst the Chinese for their dandyism. 

 All except the lowest labourers and coolies strutted 

 about in dresses composed of silk, satin, and crape. 

 My Chinese servants were one day contrasting the 

 natives of Hang-chow in this respect with those of the 

 more inland parts from which they came. They said 

 there were many rich men in their country, but they 

 all dressed plainly and modestly, while the natives 

 of Hang-chow, both rich and poor, were never con- 

 tented unless gaily dressed in silks and satins. 

 " Indeed," said they, " one can never tell a rich man 

 in Hang-chow, for it is just possible that all he pos- 

 sesses in the world is on his back." 



When we were about half way through the city 

 the chairmen set me down, and informed me that 

 they went no farther. I got out and looked round 

 for my servants, from whom I expected an explana- 

 tion, for I had understood that the chairmen had 

 been paid to take me the whole way through. My 

 servants, however, were nowhere to be seen — they 

 had either gone some other road, or, what was more 

 probable, had intentionally kept out of the way in 

 case of any disturbance. I was now in a dilemma, 

 and did not clearly see my way out of it. Much to 



