Chap. III. 



BREAKFAST ON BOARD. 



47 



one comes in from a walk hot and weary ; it is far 

 more refreshing than bathing in cold water, and 

 perhaps more conducive to health. 



After I was dressed I received a cup of tea — tea 

 in the strict sense of the word — without sugar or 

 milk, these additions never being used in this part of 

 China. About eight o'clock the cook had six large 

 earthenware basins placed at the side of the rice-pot ; 

 each of these he filled brim full of conge, and set 

 them in the open air to cool. When it was cool 

 enough to be eaten, the basins were placed in a row 

 in the passage between our berths ; the passengers 

 then arranged themselves into messes, four in each, 

 and breakfast began. By this arrangement the dwarf, 

 who occupied the berth opposite to mine, my two 

 Chinese servants, and myself formed the mess nearest 

 to the stern of the boat. Each man was furnished 

 with a small basin and a pair of chop-sticks ; a 

 wooden ladle was placed in the earthen pan, with 

 which each filled his basin. 



Having had little to eat the day before, except 

 some sweet potatoes which one of my men brought 

 me, I was hungry enough not only to eat the conge, 

 uninviting as it certainly was, but also to disregard 

 the presence of the Chinese, or what they might 

 think of the awkward way in which I used the chop- 

 sticks. I got on very well, however, and found that 

 I had not quite forgotten the art of eating with these 

 highly-civilized instruments. It is, however, easier 

 to eat rice and conge with them than other kinds of 

 food, for the basin is generally brought quite close up 



