Chap. X. 



TEA COOLIES — INNS. 



185 



we met with few people by the way. I was indulging 

 in the hope that my day's journey would be through 

 a quiet country district like what one sees on some 

 of the country roads at home ; but, in so far as a 

 quiet country road was concerned, I was soon unde- 

 ceived. Long trains of coolies were now met, loaded 

 with tea which was destined for Hang-chow-foo, and 

 thence for Shanghae, to be sold to the English and 

 American merchants. As my chair-bearers walked 

 very fast, we likewise passed great numbers on the 

 road going the same way as ourselves. These were 

 hands returning after having got rid of their loads at 

 Chang-shan ; but they were not returning empty- 

 handed ; they were loaded with raw cotton, cotton 

 goods, lead, and various other articles^ which had 

 either been imported from foreign parts, or produced 

 in countries nearer the sea. At nearly every le of 

 the road as we went along we found inns and tea- 

 shops. The road in front of these houses was gene- 

 rally thatched over, in order that those who stopped 

 for refreshment might be protected from the sun and 

 rain. 



When we had journeyed in this way about thirty 

 le, my chair-bearers said they must rest awhile, and 

 have some refreshment. I readily agreed to this 

 proposition, as I was rather thirsty myself, and de- 

 sired them to set me down at the first house we came 

 to, which they accordingly did. We walked into 

 the house, and I took a seat at one table, while my 

 servant and the chair-bearers seated themselves at 

 another. The good lady of the house set down a 



