186 



TEA DISTEICTS OF CHINA. 



Chap. X. 



teacup before each of us, into which she put some 

 tea, and then filled each cup up with boiling water. 

 I need scarcely say she did not offer us any sugar or 

 milk. Other tables were crowded with people, most 

 of whom were coolies going to Chang-shan with tea, 

 and whose chests nearly blocked up the road in front 

 of the door. We drank our tea, which I found most 

 refreshing, in its pure state without sugar and milk. 

 Now and then some one connected with the house 

 came round and filled our basins again with boiling 

 water. This is usually repeated two or three times, 

 or until all the strength is drawn out of the leaves. 



Having smoked our pipes and paid two cash each 

 for our tea, I got into my chair and resumed my 

 journey. The road now led us up between two hills, 

 and a huge stone gateway and pass showed me that 

 I was on the outskirts of the province of Chekiang, 

 and about to pass into Kiang-see. A strong wall, 

 not unlike the ramparts of a city, connected the two 

 hills, the gateway being of course in the centre of the 

 pass. The whole place had a warlike appearance, 

 and there was a military station, on each side, so that 

 each province might be duly represented and duly 

 guarded. These stations were in a ruinous con- 

 dition, and I observed only women and children about 

 the houses. In peaceful times the soldiers are, no 

 doubt, permitted to convert the sword into the 

 ploughshare, and engage in the cultivation of the 

 land. 



Although small villages and houses for refresh- 

 ment extended, at short intervals, along the whole 



