My Tembe near the Tanganyika. 



CHAP. XIII. 



AT LENGTH WE SIGHT THE LAKE TANGANYIKA, THE " SEA OF 



UJIJI." 



The route before us lay through a howling wilderness, 

 once populous and fertile, but now laid waste by the 

 fierce Watuta. Snay bin Amir had warned me that 

 it would be our greatest trial of patience. The march 

 began badly : Mpete, the district on the right bank of 

 the Malagarazi River, is highly malarious, and the 

 mosquitoes feasted right royally upon our life, even 

 during the day-time. We bivouacked under a shady 

 tree, within sight of the ferry, not knowing that upon 

 the woody eminences above the valley there are usually 

 fine kraals of dry grass and of mkora or myombo-bark. 

 During the rainy monsoon the best encampments in 



