114 THE LAKE REGIONS OP CENTRAL AFRICA. 



we rounded the bluff northern point of the island, put 

 into " Mtuwwa," a little bay on its western shore, 

 pitched the tent, and slept at ease. 



Another halt was required on the 22nd April. The 

 Sultan Kisesa demanded his blackmail, which amounted 

 to one coil-bracelet and two cloths ; provisions were 

 hardly procurable, because his subjects wanted white 

 beads, with which, being at a discount at Ujiji, we had 

 not provided ourselves ; and Kannena again success- 

 fully put in a tyrannical claim for 460 khete of blue- 

 porcelains to purchase rations. 



On the 23rd April we left Mtuwwa, and made for 

 the opposite or western shore of the lake, which appeared 

 about fifteen miles distant ; the day's work was nine 

 hours. The two canoes paddled far apart, there was 

 therefore little bumping, smoking, or quarrelling, till 

 near our destination. At Murivumba the malaria, the 

 mosquitoes, the crocodiles, and the men are equally feared. 

 The land belongs to the Wabembe, who are correctly 

 described in the "Mombas Mission Map" as "Menschen- 

 fresser — anthropophagi." The practice arises from 

 the savage and apathetic nature of the people, who 

 devour, besides man, all kinds of carrion and vermin, 

 grubs and insects, whilst they abandon to wild growths 

 a land of the richest soil and of the most prolific climate. 

 They prefer man raw, whereas the Wadoe of the coast 

 eat him roasted. The people of a village which backed 

 the port, assembled as usual to "sow gape-seed;" but 

 though 



" A hungry look hung upon them all," — 



and amongst cannibals one always fancies oneself con- 

 sidered in the light of butcher's meat, — the poor devils, 

 dark and stunted, timid and degraded, appeared less 



