240 



THE LAKE REGIONS OF CENTRAL AFRICA. 



before and immediately after departure, and this dry- 

 knowledge may be useful to future adventurers in the 

 great cause of discovery. 



The stages now appeared shorter, the sun cooler, the 

 breeze warmer; after fourteen months of incessant fevers, 

 the party had become tolerably acclimatised ; all were 

 now loud in praise, as they had been violent in censure, 

 of the " water and air." Before entering the Fiery Field, 

 the hire for carrying the hammocks became so exorbi- 

 tant that I dismissed the bearers, drew on my jack- 

 boots, mounted the half-caste Zanzibari ass, and ap- 

 peared once more as the Mtongi of a caravan. After a 

 fortnight my companion had convalesced so rapidly 

 that he announced himself ready to ride. The severe 

 liver pains had disappeared, leaving behind them, how- 

 ever, for a time, a harassing heart- ache and nausea, 

 with other bilious symptoms, which developed them- 

 selves when exposed to the burning sun of the several 

 tirikeza. Gradually these sequelaB ceased, sleep and 

 appetite returned, and at K'hok'ho, in Ugogo, my com- 

 panion had strength enough to carry a heavy rifle, and 

 to do damage amongst the antelope and the guinea fowl. 

 Our Goanese servants also, after suffering severely from 

 fever and face-ache, became different men ; Valentine, 

 blessed with a more strenuous diathesis, carried before 

 him a crop like a well-crammed capon. As the porters 

 left this country, and the escort approached their homes, 

 there was a notable change of demeanour. All waxed 

 civil, even to servility, grumbling ceased, and smiles 

 mantled every countenance. Even Muzungu Mbaya, 

 who in Unyamwezi had been the head and front of all 

 offence, was to be seen in Ugogo meekly sweeping out 

 our tents with a bunch of thorns. 



We left Hanga, the dirty cow-village, on the 13th 



