208 THE LAKE REGION'S OF CENTEAL AFEICA. 



asses, Siringe, — the Quarter-dollar — and Siringe, sadly 

 back-sore, cowering in the hams, and slipping from 

 under me every few minutes, showed present signs of 

 giving in. 



The basin of Inenge lies at the foot of the Rubeho 

 or " Windy Pass," the third and westernmost range of 

 the Usagara Mountains. The climate, like that of 

 Rumuma, is ever in extremes — during the day a furnace, 

 and at night a refrigerator — the position is a funnel, 

 which alternately collects the fiery sunbeams and the 

 chilly winds that pour down from the misty highlands. 

 The villagers of the settlements overlooking the ravine, 

 flocked down to barter their animals and grain. Here, 

 for the first time since our departure from the coast, 

 honey, clarified butter, and, greatest boon of all, milk, 

 fresh and sour, were procurable. The man who has 

 been restricted to a diet so unwholesome as holcus 

 and bajri, with an occasional treat of kennel-food, — 

 broth and beans, — will understand that the first un- 

 expected appearance of milk, butter, and honey formed 

 an epoch in our journey. 



The halt was celebrated with abundant drumming and 

 droning, which lasted half the night ; it served to cheer the 

 spirits of the men, who had talked of nothing the whole 

 day but the danger of being attacked by the Wahumba. 

 On the next morning arrived a caravan of about 400 

 Wanyamwezi porters inarching to the coast, under the 

 command of Isa bin Hijji and three other Arab mer- 

 chants. An interchange of civilities took place. The 

 Arabs lacking cloth could not feed their slaves and 

 porters, who deserted daily, imperilling a valuable 

 investment in ivory. The Europeans could afford a 

 small contribution of three Gorah or pieces of 

 domestics: they received a present of fine white 



