THE FERRY. 



411 



that time, when the rains had not supersaturated the 

 soil, was hard and dry, we came upon the "Ghaut," a 

 muddy run or clearing in the thicket of stiff grass which 

 crossed the stream. There we found a scene of confusion. 

 The Arabs of Kazeh had described the canoes as fine 

 barges, capable of accommodating fifty or sixty passen- 

 gers. I was not, however, surprised to find wretched 

 " baumrinden " — tree-rind — canoes, two strips of " my- 

 ombo" bark, from five to seven feet in length, sown 

 together like a doubled wedge with fibres of the same 

 material. The keel was sharp, the bow and stern were 

 elevated, and the craft was prevented from collapsing by 

 cross-bars — rough sticks about eighteen inches long, 

 jammed ladder- wise between the sides. When high and 

 dry upon the bank, they look not unlike castaway shoes of 

 an unusual size. We entered " gingerly." The craft is 

 crankier than the Turkish caique, and we held on " like 

 grim death " to the gunwale with wetted fingers. The 

 weight of two men causes these canoes to sink within 

 three or four inches of water-level. An extra sheet of 

 stiff bark was placed as a seat in the stern ; but the in- 

 terior was ankle-deep in water, and baling was necessary 

 after each trip. The ferryman, standing amidships or 

 in the fore, poled or paddled according to the depth of 

 the stream. He managed skilfully enough, and on the 

 return-march I had reason to admire the dexterity with 

 which he threaded the narrow, grass-grown and wind- 

 ing veins of deep water, that ramified from the main 

 trunk over the swampy and rushy plains on both sides. 

 Our riding asses were thrown into the river, and they 

 swam across without accident. Much to my surprise, 

 none of the bales were lost or injured. The ferrymen 

 showed decision in maintaining, and ingenuity in in- 

 creasing, their claims. On the appearance of opposition 



