16 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



We had no time to lose, and, after a hasty supper, 

 under the guidance of an Indian lad belonging to 

 the house, we set out for the church. Very soon 

 we were in the main street leading to it, along which, 

 as it seemed, the whole population of Merida was 

 moving to the fete. In every house a lantern hung 

 from the balconied windows, or a long candle stood 

 under a glass shade, to light them on their way. 

 At the head of the street was a large plaza, on one 

 side of which stood the church, with its great front 

 brilliantly illuminated, and on the platform and steps, 

 and all the open square before it, was a great mo- 

 ving mass of men, women, and children, mostly In- 

 dians, dressed in white. 



We worked our way up to the door, and found 

 the church within a blaze of light. Two rows of 

 high candlesticks, with wax candles eight or ten feet 

 high, extended the whole length from the door to 

 the altar. On each side hung innumerable lamps, 

 dotting the whole space from the floor to the ceil- 

 ing; and back at the extreme end, standing on an 

 elevated platform, was an altar thirty feet high, rich 

 with silver ornaments and vases of flowers, and 

 hung with innumerable lamps brilUantly burning. 

 Priests in ghttering vestments were officiating be- 

 fore it, music was swelhng through the corridor and 

 arches, and the floor of the immense church was 

 covered wit1a women on their knees, dressed in 

 white, with white shawls over their heads. Through 

 the entire body of the church not a man was to be 



