338 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL* 



ands round their necks, hung with half dollar and 

 two shilling pieces, in token of rejoicing at the 

 change of the alcaldes of the wells. 



At seven o'clock the old alcaldes took their seats 

 for the last time, and administered the oath of office 

 to their successors, after which a procession formed 

 for the church. The padrecito led the way, ac- 

 companied by the new alcaldes. They were dress- 

 ed in black body-coats and black hats, which, as we 

 had not seen such things since we left Merida, 

 among the white dresses and straw hats around 

 seemed a strange costume. Then followed the In- 

 dian officials, each with his staff of office, and the 

 rest of the crowd in the plaza. Grand mass was 

 said, after which the padrecito sprinkled the new 

 alcaldes with holy water, and withdrew into his 

 room in the convent to take chocolate. We fol- 

 lowed him, and about the same time the whole 

 body of new officers entered. The white alcaldes 

 all came up and shook hands with us, and while 

 the padrecito was raising his chocolate to his lips, 

 the Indians went one by one and kissed his hand 

 without disturbing his use of it. During this time 

 he asked us what we thought of the muchachas, or 

 girls of the village, whether they would compare 

 with those of our country, and, still sipping his 

 chocolate, made an address to the Indians, telling 

 them that, although they were great in respect to 

 the other Indians, yet in respect to the principal 

 alcaldes they were but small men ; and, after much 



