General aspect of Tahiti. 



TAHITI. 



Arrival and reception. 



not only ameliorating the condition of the natives, 

 luit protecting the unfortunate mariner who mny 

 be wrecked within thb dangerous archipelago. 



From w hat lias been said i>f the Panmotu Croup, 

 it is evident it can afford but few advantages for 

 commercial cuterprise ; the only article which of 

 Into years has been bought for among the inland*, 

 is the pearl oystor-shelt, of which considerable 



quantities I in vii been obtained. The vessels en- 

 gaged in the fishery belong to foreigners, who 

 reside at Tahiti, The mode of taking the oysters 

 is by natives, who are employed an divers, for a 

 very small compensation. I: is much to be re- 

 gretted, that the traders should have recourse to 

 the demoralizing effects of spirits, to atiraulating 

 their exertions. 



CHAPTER XI. 

 TAHITI. 



GENERAL ASPECT OP TAHITI*- ARRIVAL AST* RF CE1TION— OKX EH A L FIGURE OF TMK ISL S XD— ITS fJEOLOCilCAL 

 (TRUCTr R K— AW OD1IRV ATORV ESTABLISHED— fVRTKY OF II AH HOUR > — LONCITt/DE OF POIXT VEXCS— HEIGHT OF 

 MOUNTAINS — TJf B fiUVERVOR OF M ATA YA 1 — It I S HUSI-ITALITT— CHURCH AT If ATAVAI— CHARACTER OF THE 

 X *TJVR<i — irHOOl AT FArlETI— GEXRRAL R1FFDIIOX OF ED PC ATIUX— COM FL A ISTS OF THE AMERICA* COXSUL 

 — COtTSrlL OF TUE CM IEF5— IS FLCKXCE OF THE M1*t IOX ARI ES— fB A>flK OF THE XATIOXAL DRESS— CEXER AL 

 VIEW OF TltE LABOURS OF THE M lASIOFf it IF.8— IK FEOYEMKXT IS Till: KATIVE r II ARACTIR— CADRES OF R»ST 

 OF 1SIJCSTRT— COXSTITCTtOX OF TAHITI— COCETS OF JUSTICE — -Uf f: EX AID ROT A t. F AM 1 LIT — IHMM l»F THK 

 SUPREME COURT— STATE OF PARTIES— CASK OF THE CATHOLIC PRIESTS — DWELLlXflS OF THE X ATI VES— A PTE A R- 

 AEl'E OF THE FEMA LEft— DRESS OF THE TWO SEXES — TASTE OF THE XATIVES ruB FLOWERS— COOKERY AND 

 MODE OF EATIXO— MUSIC OF THE ISLASDRRS — tXrfcUITtOX TO LAKE WAI H RRE A— FOREltJM TRADE OF TAHITI. 



The beauty of the distant view of Tahiti has been 

 celebrated* by all navigators, but I must confess 

 Unit it disappointed mo. The entire outline of the 

 island MM visible for too short a time, and at too 

 great distance to |wnnit its boasted features to be 

 distinctly seen. Upon a second and nearer view, 

 its jagged peaks and rugged inaccessible mountains 

 were visible, but we looked in vain for the verdant 

 groves which arc said by all writers to clothe it. 

 These indeed exist, but are coufined to a narrow 

 belt of low land, lying between the mountains and 

 the shore, and being unseen at a distance, the 

 general aspect of the island is that of a land re- 

 cently thrown up by volcanic action. 



Wlien, however, Tahiti is approached so near as 

 to make separate objects visible, the contrast be- 

 tween it and the barren coast of Peru becomes 

 striking. Even upon the steep surface of its cliffs, 

 vegetation abounds; the belt of low land is covered 

 with the tropical trees peculiar to Polynesia; while 

 the high peaks and wait-faced mountains in the 

 rear are covered with vines and creeping plants. 

 This verdure is seen to rise from a quiet girdle of 

 water, which is again surrounded by a line of 

 breaker*, dashing in snow-white foam on the en- 

 circling reefs of coral. Such objects are sufficient 

 to form a beautiful landscape, nod my disappoint- 

 ment probably arose in part from finding every 

 thing more diminutive than I had been led to 

 incline from the highly-wrought descriptions I 

 bad been [ionising only a few days before. 



We were surrounded, even before we anchored, 

 by canoes i.f all shapes and sizes, whose crews 

 made a prodigious clamour. I at once interdicted 

 any one who was not a chief from coming on 

 board; but upon this being announced, every one 

 claimed to be a chief of some description or other. 

 Only the great chiefs therefore, were admitted. 

 These came off in whale-boats, which are now 

 superseding the eanop, and brought with them 

 trifling presents of fruit. It was soon found that 



their errand was not one of mere ceremony, but 

 was intended to solicit the washing of our dirty 

 linen, a business which is among the prerogatives 

 of the queen and chiefs. I was informed that the 

 queen, being eHceintc, was residing on the opposite 

 side of the island, which would prevent her from 

 paying us a visit. I was, therefore, at liberty to 

 choose a less distinguished laundress, and spared 

 the pain of resisting her royal solicitations for soap, 

 an article much needed and in great request at 

 Taluti. 



I was glad when the night closed in, to be rid of 

 our numerous visitors. The pilot, who goes by the 

 name of " English Jim," was equally ho, for he 

 chose to be considered as the only privileged per- 

 son, and, besides, was looking somewhat to his own 

 profit in the lino of clothes-washing, a business 

 which the presence of the chiefs threatened to 

 interfere with. Jim is quite a respectable-looking 

 man, dresses in the Eumpean fashion, and speaks 

 English, which he has acquired on board of whale- 

 sliips, tolerabfy well. Although a good pilot, so 

 far as a knowledge of the shoals go, he does not 

 understand what to do with a vessel in case of 

 dimoulty. He told me that he had been looking 

 out for" vessels for some days, for it had thun- 

 dered. 



The two peninsulas, if they may be so termed, 

 of which the island of Tahiti is made up, are of 

 very different characters. The smaller one, called 

 Tairaboo, and usually spoken of as "the small 

 island," is said to be the most fertile : it possesses 

 some harbours, but they are little better known 

 than they were half a century ago. Both pen in- 

 sulas possess twenty-four harbours, including the 

 good and bad. Tahiti Proper contains the best, 

 and therefore engrosses all the commerce. It lias 

 in consequence been for many years the seat of 

 government. 



The whole island is of volcanic formation, but 

 there is no longer any active igneous action, nor is 



