Island of Tolo'u. 



OVOLAU. 



DaMJ W hippy . » white reilikiit. 

 Tut Uvuka. 



rounded knoll. The wind was blowing fresh from 

 the south-east, and after dark I determined to 

 heave-to to await daylight, off tliti southern) and 

 eastern island* of tin- IVejce I ivoup; tin- was done 

 in order to Bet the Porpoise at her work. Since 

 leaving Tonga, we have found ulcers prevalent 

 among our men, from the bites they had received; 

 tltey were inflammatory and difficult to cure, pre- 

 vailingamong those apparently moat healthy. Just 

 at dawn we made an inland, and at tie- same time a 

 large sandbank, about half a mile from us; had 

 darkness continued half an hour longer, we should 

 have probably been wrecked upon tie- latter, as 1 

 did not believe myself within five miles of it. Our 

 unexpected vicinity to it was caused by a strong 

 current to tlie north ward. 



AlG a.m. we began our observations, and at eight 

 I made signal to the Porpoise to part company. 



Wo continued our course with the Peacock and 

 Flying-Fish in company. I had compiled a chart 

 of the comparatively unknown sea we were about to 

 traverse ; but the weather was threatening, and 

 from the specimen we had had in the morning of 

 its dangers, I thought it would bo prudent to haul 

 oh", which I did, at 2 p.m. At live, land was re- 

 ported ahead, and <Ht the Ice bow; it proved to be 

 the island of Tntoia. which i noxv found was thirty 

 miles ...ut of the position assigned it by f, finer navi- 

 gators, I at once came to the determination of 

 running into the group, feeling assured we should 

 thus save much time, and probably find smoother 

 water; the dangers we had to encounter in either 

 way were about equal. It was now blowing a fresh 

 gale, which obliged us to take three reefy in the top- 

 sails; it is by no means a pleasant business to be 

 running over unknown ground, in a dark night, 

 before a brisk gale, at the rate of seven or eight 

 miles an hour. The sea was unusually phospho- 

 rescent, and the night was disagreeable with rain 

 and mists. The Peacock tint! Flying-Fish followed 

 us. The morning proved fine, and at daylight we 

 were within a short distance of the HorBO-shoe 

 Reef, unknown to any of us but Tom, who thought 

 we must be at least twenty miles from it. We 

 found ourselves in the midst of a number of beauti- 

 ful islands, viz." Goro, Vunua-levu, and Soinu-somu 

 on our right; Jsairni, Ambatiki, and Maluku, on 

 the left; whilst Ovolau, Wakaia, and Mokungai, 

 were in front; they were all girt by white encircling 

 reefs. So beautiful was their aspect, that I could 

 scarcely bring my mind to the realizing sense of the 

 well-known factj that they were the abode of a 

 savage, ferocious, and treacherous race of canni- 

 bals. 



Each island had its own peculiar beauty, but the 

 uye as well as iniinl felt more satisfaction in resting 

 upon Ovolnu, which as we approached, had more 

 of the appearance of civilization about it than the 

 others; it is also the highest, most broken, and most 

 picturesque. In consequence of light winds, we 

 did not succeed in raiching the harbour of Levuka 

 that evening, and passed the night under way, be- 

 tween Ovokiu and Wakaia. At daylight On WW Sth 

 of May, we were ofT the port, and made all sail for 

 it. At nine o'clock, being oft' the entrance, 1 took 

 the precaution, ns the breeze was light, to hoist the 



• In the <frth«ijrr»phy nf the rwimrt r»f the Frejee Grnnji. 

 I have followed the iiroauacla'.inn, nnd tint the true run- 

 •tructlon of the lanpiirve 



boats out (having to pass through a passage only 

 eight hundred feet in width), nod Bent them ahead 

 to tow. At lirstit is not a little alarming to approach 

 these entrances with a light wind, ami often with a 

 strong current setting in or twit; the ship rolling 

 and tossing with the swell as she nears the reefs, 

 the deep-blue water of the ocean curling into 

 white foam on them, with no bottom until the en- 

 trance is gained, when a beautiful and tranquil 

 basin opens to the view. 



The remarkable peculiarity of these coral har- 

 bours, if so 1 may call them, in that in gaining 

 them, it is but an install I from the time the sea 

 is left until security is found equal to that of mi 

 artificial dock ; this is particularly the casi> with 

 the harbour of Levuka. The shore was lined with 

 natives, watching our progress with their usual 

 curiosity ; and it was amusing to hear the shouts of 

 applause that emanated from the crowds on shore, 

 when they witnessed the men. dressed all in white, 

 running up the rigging to furl the sails. 



In passing to the anchorage, we saw a tiny boat, 

 in which wis David Whippy, one of the principal 

 w hite- residents here, w ith one of his naked children. 

 This man ran away from a ship, commanded by 

 his brother, that was trading in this group, in 

 con seq ncn ce of the ill-treatment he received on 

 board ; he now has been eighteen veal's on this 

 Wand, and is the principal man among the whites. 

 He is considered a royal messenger, or Ma tic urn 

 Auibau, and is much looked up to by the chiefs. 

 He speaks their language well ; is a prudent trust- 

 worthy person, and understands the character of 

 the natives pi rfeetly : his worth and excellent 

 character 1 had long heard of*, lie immediately 

 came on board to welcome us, and after we had 

 anchored near the town, he brought off Tui Levuka, 

 the chief of the Levuka town. This dignitary was 

 a stout, wi ll-made mar*, Mn«ng and athletic, en- 

 tirely naked, with th" exception of a scanty maro, 

 with long ends of white tapa hanging down before 

 and behind, and a turban of white fleecy tapa, not 

 unlike tissue-paper, around bis head, of enormous 

 size. These turbans designate the chiefs, and 

 frequently have a small wreath of flowers over 

 them. His face was a shining black, having been 

 painted fo» the occasion; his countenance had a 

 good expression, and he seemed, after a few 

 moments, to be quite at his ease. As is customary, 

 1 at once gave him a present of two white's teeth 

 and two fathoms of red cotton cloth, w ith which he 

 was w ell satisfied, clapping his hands several times, 

 which is their mode of expressing thanks. Mis 

 hair was crisped, with a small whalebone stick or 

 needle, twelve or fourteen inches in length, stuck 

 into it on one side ; he did not leave uie long in 

 doubt as to the nse to which the latter is put, for 

 it was continually in requisition to scratch his 

 head, the vermin being not a little troublesome, 

 lie was very desirous of doing every thing for mo, 

 and said that any ground I wished to occupy, was 

 ut the sen ice of the countrymen of his friend 

 Whippy. 



Ovolau Is the principal residence of the white 

 men in the group, to whose gcner.il deportment 

 nnd good conduct I must bear testimony; I no t 

 with none better disposed throughout the voyage 



• He h«*, linee our return, been nppotteed vice con»u| 

 for It-.e Fi-ejve Group. 



o 



