156 



GEOGRAPHICAL NOTES [X MALAYSIA AND ASIA, 



to arrange with the Sultan's enemies, who were quite peaceably 

 disposed, the Sultan treacherously incited the wild Dyaks 

 (Murutsl to attack them, so that seven people were killed, and 

 the Governor himself put in some peril. So glaring an insult 

 could hardly be passed over, so that immediately after our arrival 

 the Governor formally applied for the assistance of Captain 

 Bickford in obtaining at least an apology. 



Brunei. — Accordingly we sailed at once for Brunei, the mouth 

 of which river is about 40 miles from Lahuan. There all the ship's 

 boats were manned and armed, and an expedition of about sixty 

 blue-jackets under Captain Bickford, accompanied the Governor to 

 demand some redress from the sultan. We found the mouth of 

 the river almost blocked up by a kind of breakwater, by which 

 the river was barred against the Spaniards a century or two ago. 

 The sultan's people did not take our demonstration very seriously, 

 for his prime minister sent his launch to uwf.t us an<l to assist in 

 towing the boats ; but he had his revenge, for we slept on board 

 this boat, and T havu never, in the moderate experience of a life- 

 time, seen a steam launch infested with so many cockroaches. Our 

 boots were nearly eaten off our feat. 



It was somewhat interesting to be upon the river described so 

 graphically by Pigafetla nearly 400 years ago. There has not been 

 much change since then. The river is broad, with high ridges of 

 serrated hills on each side, and villages built over water on high 

 piles. But the city itself was just as Pigafetta saw it : a sort of 

 bamboo Venice, the streets and squares, the courts and palaces 

 were all built in the midst of the water without any means of 

 approach except by boats. T suppose there is no city in the world 

 so peculiarly constructed. The origin of this mode of residence 

 doubtless arose from the bad habits of the Brunei people. They 

 were in reality sea-gipsies who had given the inhabitants of the 

 land so much reason tor complaint that they could not trust them- 

 selves unreservedly on the shore. 



The officers of the sultan gave a private audience to us on t in- 

 evening of our visit, receiving us with what may have been 



