in the Pacific Ocean. 



23 



manageable. The use they make of hides is astonishing; the 

 most of their furniture for their mules and horses, and their 

 houses, and, on some parts of the coast, even their boats, or (as 

 they are called) balsas, are made of this article. It is used for 

 every purpose to which it is possible to apply it, either whole, cut 

 in pieces, or in long strips. When used for balsas, two hides, 

 each cut something in the form of a canoe, with the seam up- 

 wards, are blown up by means of a reed, and stopped together ; 

 a piece of board is then laid across to sit on, and on this frail 

 machine they venture a considerable distance to sea. The laque, 

 for the use of which the Chilians are so famous, is formed of a 

 very long strip of hide, with a running noose ; and their dexterity 

 in using it, in catching animals at full speed, is surprising. 

 Every pack-horseman and driver of a jackass is furnished with 

 one of these; and so much do they delight in them, or in show- 

 ing their dexterity, that when they wish to catch any one of their 

 drove, either to load, or unload, or for any other purpose, they 

 take their distance, deliberately coil up their laque^ and never fail 

 of throwing it over the neck of the animal wanted. 



Agreeable to the governor's invitation, we attended a party, 

 where we found a much larger and more brilliant assemblage of 

 ladies than we could have expected in Valparaiso. We found 

 much fancy and considerable taste displayed in their dress, and 

 many of them, with the exception of teeth, very handsome, both 

 in person and in face; their complexion remarkably fine, and 

 their manners modest and attractive. This was our first impres- 

 sion on entering a room containing perhaps two hundred ladies, 

 to whom we were perfect strangers. Minuets were introduced ; 

 coimtry-dances followed ; and the ladies had the complaisance 

 and patience to attempt with my officers, what they had never 

 before seen in the country, a cotillion. The intricacies of their 

 country-dance were too great for us to attempt ; they were 

 greatly delighted in by those who knew theto, and admitted a 

 display of much grace. With their grace, their beauty of person 

 and complexion, and with their modesty, we were delighted, and 

 could almost fancy we had gotten amongst our own fair country- 

 women ; but in one moment the illusion vanished. The hallas dc 

 tierra^ as they are called, commenced : they consisted of the most 

 graceless, and at the same time fatiguing movements of the body 

 and limbs, accompanied by the most indelicate and lascivious 

 motions, gradually increasing in energy and violence, until the 

 fair one, apparently overcome with passion, and evidently ex- 

 hausted with fatigue, was compelled to retire to her seat. 



They disfigure themselves most lavishly with paint ; but their 

 features are agreeable, and their large dark eyes are rem.arkably 

 brilliant and expressive. Were it not for their bad teeth, occa- 



