porter's journal. 



99 



Agreeably to the governor's invitation, we attended his 

 party, where we found a much larger and more brilliant as-* 

 semblage of ladies than we could have expected in Valpa- 

 raiso. We found much fancy and considerable taste dis- 

 played in their dress, and many of them, with the exception 

 of teeth, very handsome, both in person and in face ; their 

 complexion remarkably fine, and their mannfers modest and 

 attractive. This was our first impression on entering a 

 room containing perhaps two hundred ladies, to whom we 

 were perfect strangers. Minuets were introduced ; coun- 

 try-dances followed ; and the ladies had the complaisance 

 and patience to attempt with my officers, what they had 

 never before seen in the country, a cotillion. The intrica- 

 cies of their country-daoce were too great for us to at- 

 tempt ; they were greatly delighted in by those who knew 

 them, and admitted a display of much grace. With their 

 grace, their beauty of person and complexion, and with 

 their modesty, we were delighted, and could almost fancy 

 we had gotten amongst our own fair country-women ; but 

 in one moment the illusion vanished. The ballas de tierra^ 

 as they are called, commenced : they consisted of the most 

 graceless, and at the same time fatiguing movements of the 

 body and limbs, accompanied by the most indelicate and 

 lascivious motions, gradually increasing in energy and vio- 

 lence, until the fair one, apparently overcome with passion, 

 and evidently exhausted with fatigue, was compelled to re- 

 tire to her seat. 



They disfigure themselves most lavishly with paint ; but 

 their features are agreeable, and their large dark eyes are 

 remarkably brilliant and expressive. Were it not for their 

 bad teeth, occasioned by the too liberal use of the matti, 

 they would, notwithstanding the Chilian tinge, be thought 

 handsome, particularly by those who had been so long as 

 we out of the way of seeing any women. 



The matti is a decoction of the herb of Paraguay, sweet- 

 ened with sugar, and sucked hot through a long silver tube^. 

 To the use of this beverage the Chilians are perfect slaves. 

 The taste is agreeable, but it occasions terrible havoc 

 among the teeth. We returned on board our ship pleased 

 with the novelties of a Chilian ball, and much gratified by 

 the solicitude shown by every one to make our stay 

 amongst them agreeable. Invitations had been given by 



