IN JA VA. 



105 



CHAPTEE HL 



60J0XJBN AT PENGELENGAN, IN THE PREANGER BEOENCIES. 



LcaTe Biiitetiaorg for the Pmnger Eegenciea—Tloumey to Bandonig in a 

 r«wtH-!irt~l5i™\otig— Thence to PengeleiigtiOr— Visit to the famous 

 CinchoBa Garticna of the Government — Plint-life in the snrronndSng 

 montitains—Tke Ujias tree— Crater flora^LanJ-^lips and the {mver 

 of min— Interesting birds— The Ikdger-lifnuJrd Jlydaus^ — ^The Banteng, 

 or wild cattle— Wild dugs— Ltuive Fengelcn^jui f(*r Bntavia. 



After a few flays of preparation for my new totjr spf?nt in 

 Bnitenzorg, I sent off niy bagj^age to tho Preanger in tLecare 

 of a string of coolies, and secnred for myself a seat at tlie mwle- 

 rate rate of twenty cents per mile in the mail-cart whicb every 

 evening leaves Bnitenzorg for Bandong. The mail-cart was 

 not the most Inxwions, bnt it was the cheapest and certainly the 

 most expeditious way of getting over the ground. This cart was 

 a rough edition of our own niail-gig — simply a \nyx on wheels — 

 whose -cushionlesa and slippery top formed a most uncomfort- 

 able seat, yet I would not have missed the ride for a good deal. 

 We started with a couple of stout ponies yoked tantlem-wise, 

 and in place of side lamps our way was lighted by an immense 

 torch made of splints of btmlxK) some seven feet long tied 

 together, which a youth, who stniddle-wise clung on behind, 

 held to the wind to keep it ablaze. , 



Our Toad lay over the 3regaraendoeng Pass, 4500 feet above 

 the sea. At tirst the gradient was not very steep, and we 

 proceeded at a tine pace. Towards every post-station, five" 

 miles apart all along the road, our progress was heralded by 

 loud shouts, and by the louder shot-like whip-crackings that 

 these drivers are famed for. At each station a halt of three or 

 four minutes sufficed to put in the fresh horses standing ready 

 for us, out blazed a fresh flaming torch, and our plunging aiid 

 kicking steeds were off again, at a gallop which by voice and 

 whip was nttt allowed to flag until we pulled up under the 



