TN SUMATHA. 



127 



people being niore lethargic, not a single iudividual would b© 

 got to volunteer to work, however tempting the hire, but for 

 a Government enactment, then in force, that the chief of 

 each village be responsible lor the conveyance of the baggage 

 of all ofReials and persons travelling under the authority of 

 the Governmout from his own village to the next. Where 

 vUlages lay close together, much time was lost by changing^ 

 and as within a considerable radios of the coast they dotted 

 the wayside at every half mile or less, progress was distressingly 

 sh)w and wearying to the temper as well as to the flesh ; for, 

 notwithstanding the order sent forward in advance, the coolies 

 were never on the spot; one had gone to eat, another had gone 

 in search of his knife, without which no one will stir, another 

 had been taken sick quite suddenly, and such as were waiting 

 were ready to swear that the baggage was twice the regulation 

 weight— 80 to 90 lbs.— and tliey would not touch it. 



Before many of the houses which I piissed were spread out 

 drying iu the smi large quantities of pepper, what I sawrepre- 

 seutfng alone a sum of money sufficient to feed their whole 

 families for nearly eighteen months* Were coekfighting and 

 gaming not ingrained in them as a second nature, these people 

 might amass great fortunes for their condition of life. Some 

 do, indeed, hoard up considerable sums ; but one had only to 

 look on the children and young girls to see where a great deal 

 of it went. Every girl is arrayed in sinke lai or necklets, of 

 various shapes of heavy silver, few or many, according to the 

 wealth or position of her parents; on their arms rows and 

 rows of bmeelets, and in their ears large button-like earrings. 

 These ornaments are the sign of a girFs maidenhood, and 

 are worn till she marries. The wealth of a Lampong lady is 

 thus estimated by the number and weight of her ornaments, 

 which are, however, fully displayed only on feast days and 

 high occasii>ns. Jlost of these ornaments are made by native 

 silver- or gold-smiths, and are purchased weight for weight in 

 silver or gold as the ease may be.^^ 



After the first few villages were passed, my road lay mostly 

 between dense forest, extending for miles on both sides of the 

 way. The trees were magnihceBt in shape and foliage — ^giant 

 pillars, seventy and eighty feot without a branch, supporting 

 superb Iciily crowns under \vlio<io shad-' -i thou.sand men might 



