IN ISUMATUA, 



183 



CHAPTER V, 



SOJOURJC IN TIIlv PALEMBANG RESIDEKCY {cmiimied). 



From Gunimg Mcgniig — Luntar — A surprise — River Ogan— Curious Kills 

 — Oi omental csirvin^ — A vUliij^e fair — A cock-fight— Into tlie iuiui 

 Valk-y—Muara Itiiui — LiiUal — Passumali lauds — Ctrvmonml Tormulas— 

 The I »eopl<*— Marriage csTf monies — Ulcgitrmato births — Fteligion — ^Daitti 

 superstitions aud rites-^ciiljttureti stones— Inttresting visit from Ben- 

 ooolen men. 



Takinq my. departure from Gunung Megaiig, and crossing the 

 waterslied into the Ogau valley at 2000-3000 feet above sea- 

 levei^ I descended towards Peiigandonan. I^assmg through 

 the village of Limtar, I found the chielB of the marga and a 

 great concourse of people from all the region assembled on the 

 third anniverstvTy of the death of the Headmau's father, to 

 secure the welfare of his soul by feasts and sports. Here was 

 waiting for me the Pangerau of Pengandonan> which was the 

 adjacent marga. After a liberal refreshment of tea, with 

 the ubiquitous Huntley and Palmera' biscuits, and a Palem- 

 bang baked comfit, made principally of sago and the hashed- up 

 flesh of a fish (whose large scales, dyed of various colours, 

 are extensively used — and admirably adapted for the purpose 

 they are — -to cover or ** tile '* over the large leaf hats used in 

 the district), and some ripe juicy oranges, I set out with my 

 host for Pengandonan lower down on the opposite side of the 

 Ogan. We crossed the river on a ral't at a very beautiful sfwt 

 at the confluence of the Laham and the Ogan. On our left 

 were several curiously formed, abrupt hills ; facing us was the 

 bare- topped, calcareous peak of the Eiang rising sheer from the 

 bank, and just above the ferry was moored a flotilla of rakits— 

 those picturesque floating houses by which the produce of the 

 region is transported to the coast, which to the trader are ship and 

 comfortable house for many days together on these great rivers. 



