114 



FOREST AND STREAM. 



[Feb. 9, 1893. 



A TRAMP THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS. 

 II.— The Indians of North Carolina. 



On Aug. 7 Tve tramped from the foot of Clingman's 

 Dome into what the mountaineers euphoniously call 

 Yaller HiU, the ca])ital of the Indian Eeservation in North 

 Carolina. As Ave drew near our destination we met an 

 Indian of whom we asked the distance to Yellow Hill. 

 "'Bout two mile an' half." We thanked hun and started 

 on. Just then he asked, "Where hve?" My companion 

 replied, "Nashville." I said, "Tennessee." He took a 

 long, steady look at our fidl haversacks, rough clothing 

 and worn shoes, and with an expressive grunt ejaculated, 

 "Too fur!" and walked away. An hour later and we had 

 reached the Government School for the Indians. 



My first question was, ' 'How did they happen to be left 

 here?" Several responsible parties gave me the following 

 account: In 1838-9 the Indians in Geoi'gia became 

 troublesome, and it was finally decided to move them 

 west of the Mississippi. The Indians of North Carolina 

 were on friendly terms with the whites, who helped them 

 to hide when Gen. Scott and his soldiers attempted to re- 

 remove them. Their removal proved quite a task. As 

 captured they were sent away in small squads prior to 

 theu- final removal. An old Indian named Charley, and 

 his family had been captured, and under the escort of a 

 body of soldiei-s were being removed to the temporary 

 headquarters just across the Tennessee line. Becoming 

 offended at their ti-eatment Charley and his relatives 

 massacred several of the soldiers and made theu- escape. 

 This was near the Tennessee Line, between Rocky Point 

 and Four Mile Creek. Search was made for the murderers, 

 but to no effect. Among the Indians was a Col. Thomas, 

 who had been reared among them, and had been virtually 

 adopted by the chief, Yonaguski. Thomas was known as 

 the Whit€ Chief, and his influence with the Indians was 

 exceedingly great. He j)roposed to Scott that the Indians 

 be allowed' to stay and buy lands, on condition that they 

 surrender the murderers. Such an arrangement was en- 

 tered into, and Charley, his son and his son-in-law were 

 surrendered by the Indians. Scott insisted that the In- 

 dians should punish the culprits, and they were accord- 

 ingly shot to death. The Cherokees are still in their old 

 homes in North Carolina, in Swain, Jackson, Graham and 

 Cherokee counties. The reservation proper is known as 

 the Qualla Boundary, and lies in Swain and Jackson 

 counties. They have 21,000 acres in Swain and 29,000 in 

 Jackson. In addition to this they have 20,000 or 30,000 

 acres in Grah,am and Cherokee. Most of this area is 

 public land, owned by the Indians in common. This land 

 camiot be sold to any one. No Indian can settle within 

 half a mile of another. Of course this applies only to the 

 common lands. About 800 acres in the Qualla Eeserva- 

 tion are individual property. Occasionally squatters, 

 whites and negroes, take out State gratits and settle on 

 the common land of the Indians. Just here arises a con- 

 flict between the State and General Governments, and the 

 question of jui'isdiction is still in doubt. These Cherokees 

 number 1,320, and are said to be increasing in numbers. 

 Without exception they are farmers, and good ones, too. 

 Their places present an appearance of thrift and com- 

 fort not to be found among the whites. They raise 

 coru and cattle. In former years they exported some 

 tobacco. 



Their exact civil status is unsettled. They are citizens 

 of North Carolina, but are under the general supervision 

 of the U. S, Government, which sees after their land 

 titles, provides for the maintenance of their schools, etc. 

 As I said, they are citizens of North Carolina, and no- 

 where have I seen party feeluig more intense than 

 among these Cherokees. The majority of them are Ee- 

 pubhcans. 



They have a chief and a coancil. The chief's authority 

 is of a vague character, and is derived from the constitu- 

 tion. He is elected by the males over sixteen years of 

 age and holds office for four years. Prior to 1875 the 

 term was for hfe. He convenes the council (consisting of 

 one representative for every Mty souls) and lays before 

 them questions concerning the general welfare. This 

 council meets annually or when convened by the chief. 

 The present chief, Stillwell Sounooka, is a portly, stohd- 

 looking man. The ex-chief, John Smith, or Tsalatihi, is 

 a taU, handsome feUow, with long, black hair, and is a 

 Chesterfield in manners. His erect, military bearing is 

 suggestive of his four years of service as a Confederate 

 officer. He is also a Mason and is much interested in the 

 order. 



The Indians have four schools, three of them day 

 schools. These latter are supported by the interest of 

 f'ands belonging to the Indians and in the hands of the 

 Commissioner of Indian Claims. The fund is the money 

 originally intended for the transportation of the Indians 

 to the Indian Territory and for their subsistence en route. 

 The other is a boarding school and is supported by a direct 

 appropriation of the General G(jvernment. Provision is 

 made for the board, clothing and education of eightj^ In- 

 dians. Both sexes are represented. The curriculum com- 

 prises the ordinary public school course, and for the boys, 

 training in fai-ming, blacksmithing, shoemaking and cer- 

 penter's work, while the girls are taught housework in all 

 its branches. They are also given instruction on the 

 piano and the guitar. The boys have a brass band of sev- 

 enteen pieces. Each sex does its own housework. The 

 boys and girls sleep in houses £it some distance from each 

 other, but eat at the same house. We ate two meals with 

 them, and can testify that their table manners are fully 

 up to the mark attained by the average American boy or 

 girl. In fact, they are just like other boys and girls. 

 Some are stolid, some serious, some full of fun, some in- 

 tent on their food and some full of cmiosity. The fare 

 was appetizing and abundant. 



I am sorry to saj^ just now the affairs of this, the most 

 important scliool, are in a sad tangle. For several years 

 past Mr. Spray has liad charge of this school and has been 

 superintendent of the Indians. 



Many of then- traditions bear a striking resemblance to 

 the folk lore of Uncle Eemus as well as the mythology of 

 classic times. Here is their story of Br'er Terrapin and Br'er 

 Deer. At a meeting of the animals a dispute ai-ose as to 

 which of all the animals was the fastest runner. All save 

 the terrapin yielded the palm to the deer, but Br'er Terra- 

 pin challenged Br'er Deer to a race. Br'er Deer accepted 

 and the time was set. The coiu-se was over foiu- hills and 

 terminated at a water-coiu-se. The one first reaching the 

 hUl was to indicate it by shouting. So, in the interval of 

 seven days which preceded the race, Br'er Terrapin, made 

 ^is preparations. He stationed his wife on the first hill, 



his brothers on two other hflls, a friend on the last hill 

 and his father at the goal. He and Br'er Deer started 

 together. Away went the deer at a rapid gait, while the 

 terrapin crawled into the bushes and hid. As the deer 

 approached the top of the first hiH the terrapin stationed 

 there called out, "You a-runnin' mightly Avell, Br'er Deer, 

 but you'U have to run faster than that to beat me." The 

 deer pricked up his ears and ran faster than before. Soon 

 he reached the second hiU, only to hear the terrapin say, 

 "You a-runnin' mighty well, "Br'er Deer, but you'U have 

 to run faster than that to beat me." At each hill this was 

 repeated and each time the deer made a desperate spm-t, 

 but in vain, for as he came in sight of the water-course, 

 there sat Br'er Terrapin and saluted him with, "Br'er 

 Deer, you a mighty good runner, but I can't be beat." 



In Indian lore the terraphi is the personification 

 of cunning and wisdom. This is how he decided a 

 case. There bad been an old feud between Br'er 

 Rabbit and Br'er Wolf. One day Br'er Rabbit foimd 

 Br'er Wolf about to be crushed to death by a large 

 stone which had fallen on him. Br'er Wolf begged 

 him to help him out, but Br'er Rabbit refused, fearing 

 that the wolf would kill him Avhen released. The wolf 

 solemnly assured him that he would not molest him and 

 the rabbit pushed the stone off and released him. The 

 wolf at once seized him and prepared to kill him. The 

 rabbit begged for mercy, but in vain. Finally, he induced 

 the wolf to agree to lay the case before Br'er Terrapin 

 and to abide by his decision. Br'er Wolf stated that 

 Br'er Eabbit had once done him an injnry and tliat he 

 had sworn to kill him for it. Br'er Eabbit plead his sav- 

 ing of Br'er Wolf's hfe. Br'er Terrapin had the circum- 

 stance of the stone repeated again and again, but said he 

 was so dull that he couldn't understand it and asked the 

 wolf to get in the same place again, that he might see 

 what service Br'er Eabbit had rendered him. The wolf 

 agreed, and when he was once more nnder the stone 

 Br'er Terrapin and Br'er Rabbit walked oft^ and left him. 



So much, for the present, touching their legends._ A 

 few weeks ago an Indian was found making some pipes 

 and gravely explained that he was "making old Injim 

 relics"" Another, on trial for stealing, declined to plead 

 until he "had heard the evidence in the case." 



We, that is Smith and I, left Yellow Hill on the morn- 

 ing of the 9th, bound for AVhittier, a little station on the 

 Eichmond & Danville E. E. , six miles from YelloW Hill. 

 Myer decided to spend another day among the Indians 

 and then take the train for xisheville, there to await our 

 coming. Landon Smith rode back to Bryson City, to take 

 the train for Texas. We two tramps forded the 'Luftie 

 and set out at a brisk pace for Whittier. Meeting a morm- 

 t,ain lad. Smith asked him if we "followed the straight 

 road to Whittier." "No, it's a crooked one," was the 

 reply. Smith grinned and walked on. Our plan was to 

 take" the train to Balsam Gap and then strike into the 

 mountains once more, devoting the last two days of our 

 tramp to the Balsam Mountains. We reached Whittier 

 two hours before the train did. Smith wrote, while I 

 loafed. I met Sam Owl, a noted Indian guide, who 

 proved less taciturn than most of his race. I also heard a 

 mountain maiden speaking of a dress pattern wliich she 

 was about to buy, say, "Doggone if that aint the one for 

 me." On the train W(<re Mr. and Mrs. Smathey, of 

 Waynesville, whom we had -aiet at Yellow Hill, and Mr. 

 Smathey kindly mapped out for us a route for our two 

 days in the Balsams, and also tiarried our sxirpliis baggage 

 on" to Waynesville. I ; ndon Si nith and the Erdmans were 

 on board, and to out ii;iaufication, Mr. Geo. Erdman, 

 Princeton '93, decided to join us. At Balsam Gap we got 

 a good dinner, and then started up Mt. Junaluska (Plott 

 Balsam), height 6,22oft. Mr. Connor, an old gentleman of 

 75, was our guide. He is a firm believer in the cm-ative 

 properties of balsam, and says it will heal anything, from 

 a seared conscience to a case of smaU-pox. He gathers it 

 and sells it at $3 per pin. 



Nowhere on the trip had we a steeper climb than up 

 Janaluska. It was as bad as the ascent of Chngman, but 

 longer. The view was poor, owing to the timber, but on 

 the divide we had a glorious prospect. Once more we got 

 wet, this time to the bone. A tramp of twelve miles 

 brought us to the famous Haywood White Sulphur 

 Springs, on the outskhts of Waynesville. As we passed 

 the sleek, well-dressed felloAvs who are stopping here, we 

 received many glances of curiosity and possibly one or 

 two of pity. Our kind landlady gave us an excellent sup- 

 per and pretended to be indifferent to our prodigious ap- 

 petites. After supper we tried to secure a guide for the 

 next day but failed. We slept soundly and got an early 

 start the next morning. This was to be our last day, so 

 our packs were lighter than heretofore. We took the road 

 leading to the Caney Fork Bald and Great Divide. Three 

 or four miles fi om Waynesville we met a group of men, 

 one of whom, McClure". agreed to guide us. We found 

 him equal to even Massey for tliis trip. He pointed out to 

 us the spot where Grant Massey, Pat's brother, had_ a 

 month before shot to death a moimtain Paris who had in- 

 vaded his home. Grant is now hiding out in the inacces- 

 sible Smokies, but, it is thought, will return to stand his 

 trial. Half an hour later we saw the faithless wife, a 

 preity. buxom mountain girl, evidently careless of and in- 

 different to the tragedy in which she plays so praminent 

 a part. The clunb up Caney Fork was not a difficult one, 

 but from here to the top of the Great Divide, 6,425ft. 

 high, we had rough work, fuUy as bad as the ascent of 

 Junaluska. At 1 :15 we reached the highest point, after 

 being wet to the skin once more. The clouds and fog pre- 

 vented a view, so on we pushed to Luckstone Moimtain, 



Following the divide we were at one time in sight of 

 four streams — Caney Fork, Tuckaseege, Pigeon and Eich- 

 land. Just across Pigeon River were Cold Mountain and 

 Pisgah, An easy climb carried us up Lickstone, whei-e 

 we emerged into" an oak grove where the Druids might 

 have worshipped. A half mile walk through this grove 

 led us, by a gradual ascent, to the summit of Lickstone, a 

 circle about" twenty feet in diameter. Here the fates 

 were propitious and as the clouds lifted we had the most 

 glorious view of the whole trip. It was a fitting close to 

 the scene. But no man can describe such a picture. You 

 must see it to appreciate it. Leaving Lickstone and the 

 luscious huckleberries which abormd thereon we started 

 for AVayiiesville, vrhich was only seven miles away, as 

 we had' been traveling in ahnost a circle. On the «'ay in 

 Erdman sang us his college songs and at 7 P. M. ^ve 

 reached Waynesville, having accomplislied twenty-sis 

 miles on this, otu- last day. As we entered the town we 

 passed some little girls, one of whom said: "Ain't you 

 du'tyl" I guegs we were, After we reached otir board- 



ing house I went out into the yard and began to scrape 

 the mud from my trousers. A bright httle six-year-old 

 Came up and took a seat near me. "Mister, is you all 

 tramps?" "Yes." "When you go to houses do they give 

 you cold victuals?" "Yes, sometimes." "Well, you don't 

 git as much as the others, do you?" 



There were many ludicrous incidents on tliis tramp, 

 and the lack of a camera deprived us of some sights we 

 would gladly preserve . Tr a juxmag along a m ountain road , 

 we saw a yoimg fellow and his girl sitting in the door of a 

 smokehouse, about three rods'^froru the cabin. There 

 they sat, hand in hand, and the old, old story was e vident- 

 ly falling on wiUing ears. "Courtmg-," was the comment 

 of one of our party. "Human natiire's a queer thing," 

 said our guide. And, just here, let me say that if you 

 ever take this tramp or one like it, be sure to secure a gofld 

 guide. Otherwise, you wiU certainly get lost, and wander 

 around for hours, half-starved for lack of food, and half- 

 perished for water. Many of my friemls have asked me 

 about game in these mountains. Turkey and pheasants 

 are plentiful, some w^olves, a few bears and an occasional 

 deer may be fomid. Of snakes we saw none. On the 

 highest peaks we found thousands of blackberry bushes; 

 the berries were plentiful, but green, but there was not a 

 brier to be seen on any of these buslies. Why? Mica is 

 abrxndant and can be picked up almost anywhej-e. Now, 

 if you wish to avoid what Holmes calls the parenthesis 

 about the mouth when you smde. and the other sign maii- 

 uals by which the probate court recoKuizes old age, try a 

 tramp" through the mountains, covering 119 miles in six- 

 consecutive days as did Smith and I. 



■ At Waynesville I met a judge of the Supreme Court of 

 N. C. At Ashe^sdUe the next day, aft^r 1 had gotten out of 

 my tramping clothes and into" the ordinary g.arments of 

 civilization, I met him once more. "It seems to me that 

 I know you," said he. "Yes, judge, you remember my 

 face but "not my clothes." Owe tramp closed at Waynes- 

 riRe as stated above. The next morning we went into 

 Asheville on the ti'ain and spent a day in sight-seeing. 

 This town is correctly termed the "Land of the Skies." 

 It abounds in good hotels, and the view from the Battery 

 Park is particularly fine. But I was writing of the moun- 

 tains and of our tramp, so will simply close by saying that 

 after a quick and pleasant rim by rail I reached FrankKn 

 on Aug. 12, bringing with me a wonderful appetite. 



W. D. MOOREY. 



RABBITS AND FERRETS. 



South Montrose, Pa, — Editor Forest and Stream: I 

 notice a personal reply in your paper to my letter about 

 rabbits and ferrets. It was written by a, gentleman of 

 Auburn, who signs himself "Bon Ami." The word oat 

 was a mistake, but what material.diff'ererce is it wlictlier 

 the male eats the yormg or digs a hole and buries them. 

 "Bon Ami" tells us that he (a tnie sportsman) with his 

 gun and dog killed ten rabbits in one-half day. It is 

 easy to see that if he had hunted the rest of the day there 

 would have been twenty dead rabbits. 



This gentleman notes that rabbits are scarcer than 

 before ferrets were used. But the fact in thei e :irp icn 

 hunters now to the occasional one of a, few year« ago. 



A man living only two miles from "Bon Ami' told me 

 he had killed 200 rabbits last fall, and not much of a. fall 

 for rabbits either. I say we have plenty of rabbits in 

 Susquehanna county, and plenty of hunters, too. 



I still claim that the home of 'the ruffed grouse in_ sum- 

 mer is in the woods on top of our hills. Anj'- boy will tell 

 you that the grouse come out for the berrir's wliicli v^vnw 

 in the open places, and when disturbed make strai.ulit for 

 the woods. They also rear their young on high and dry 

 gToimd. and not "till cold weather do the}' go down to the 

 hemlock swamps. And even then every ^\ arm day the\- 

 mav be found on bi,t;lipr groimd feeding. 



l"have talked with several gentlemen wlro say I aro 

 right. But "Bon Ami" doubted every Avord of my letter 

 of Nov. 17. I have a communication from a sti-anger 

 who saw "Bon Ami's" letter of Dec. 1, and I now- have 

 the libei-ty of sending for publication. It is a follows: 



West Hoosick, N. Y.— In Forkst and Stkti^vm Dec. 1 I saw somf re- 

 marks signed '-Bon _.Uui." He (toes not t.nke, nny stock iu the niuln? 

 ra1iWt-B killiuE,' the vonng. You ai'e nslit, Mr. Decker. The huek m ill 

 kiU every rouiiE;- rabbit lie c-m finfl, I have h;id as much exf .eru'u.jc 

 with raijbits as any man on this trrerti eai'lh, an-l krowinh t. »vh,'it I 

 am talking about, and if "Bi'iiAirii'; -wauls boiuc •;••■•!• t---- • ' -.lUin-^J 

 can givetliem T.ith 40 yeai-s' e.vperience in brcv • • ■ '■»<'■"• 



rabbits. Also. I had a hn^h .u tv.o acres fenervl . v.,,,, 



Tvikl rabbits, t have seen the hucks ImntMi i r ■ i ,|^llH■l,!■ 



I bad to keep tlie baeks in rery srnan nuihi-^ ' ..niakefisMc- 

 eess in breedini;. And a^ain, if --Bon Ae,i ' m ,y\,niz^ 



and breed tliern one year lie will fiad twu Lui ' ■■ - v ohsprinji to 



befemales. iJiina-tN Haioht. 



Silas Decker. 



A Snail on the Snow. 



LocKPORT, N. Y., Feb. 3. — While my son and I wer 

 tramping in the woods last Saturday he found a small 

 snail sheU on top of the .snow, which was at least ISin, 

 deep. Wondering how it came there he stooped to pick it 

 up. when he saw it was about liin. froro. an oblong-shaped 

 hole, a little over lin. in length by -Sin. across, and run- 

 ning nearlv perpendicular to tb.e grdrnid. Digging down 

 on one side of it he found that it exteuded under a dead 

 limb Iving just above the ft-rouud. There is a, snail in the 

 shell but it'is dead, probably frozen to death wljile on the 

 top of the snow. How did it get there? J. L. Davison. 



An Indian's Testimony. 



Pedro, a. MolaUa Indian living on the Klamath Reser- 

 vation, Oregon, says: "I was huutiug in the mountains 

 near Crater Lake (Oregon), when perhaps 75yds. away. I 

 saw a cougar standing with its head well up, looking at 

 me; I aimed at its breast and tired, the animal gave a 

 very lortd scream and sprang straight up 6 or 8ft. and f nil 

 dead. The bullet struck where I had aimed; I was o r 

 afraid when I saw the cougar Imt the cry scared me.' 



"S-i'kVAN," Witness. 



Pedro. 



Queer Game for Hawks. 

 AvocA, N. C, Feb. 1.— Yesterday in a ravine I sud- 

 denljr oanie opi a large hawk:, and so startled Man tha.t he 



