CHAP, VI t,] 



TERBACED HILLS, 



111 



delicious climate and its Botamcal Ganleiis. With the 

 latter I was somewhat disappointyU, The \\'allvs %vere all 

 (jf loose pebbles, making any lengtliened wanderings about 

 tbeiu veiy tiring and piiiidul under a tropical sun. Tbe 

 gardens are no doubt wonderfully rich in tropical and 

 especially in Malayan plants, but thei-e is a great absence 

 of skilfid laying-out; there are not enough men to keep 

 the place thoroughly in order, and the plants tlieniselves 

 are. seldom to be compai-ed for luxnriance and beauty to 

 the same species gi'own in our hothouses. This can easily 

 be explained. The plants can rarely he placed in natural 

 iir very favom^able conditions. The climate is either too 

 liot or too cool, too moist or too diy, for a large proportion 

 of tbem, and they seldom get the exact quantity of shade 

 or the right quality of soil to suit them. In our stoves 

 these varied conditions can be supplied to each individual 

 plant far better than in a large garden, wlicre tbe fact that 

 the plants arc most of them gi'owing in or near their 

 native country is supposed to ]ireclude the necessity of 

 giving them much individual attention. Still, however^ 

 there is much to admire liere. There are avenues of 

 stately palms, and clunijjs of bamboos of perhaps fifty 

 diflerent kinds; and an endless variety of tropical shrubs 

 and trees with strange and beautiful foliage. As a cluuige 

 from tbe excessive heats of Batavia. lJuiteiizorg is a 

 delightful abode. It is just elevated enough to havt, 

 deliciously cool eveniugs and uiglits, but m>t so much as 

 to require any change of clothing j and to a person long 

 resident in the hotter climate of the plains, the air is 

 always fi'esb and pleasant, and admits of walking at 

 idmost any hour of tbe day. The vicinity is most pic- 

 tm esque and luxuiiant, ami the great volcano of Gunung- 

 Salak, with ita truncated and jagged summit, Ibrms a 

 characteristic backgimmd to many of the landscapes. A 

 great mud eruption took place in 1699, since which dat-e 

 the mountain has been entirely inactive. 



On leaving Buitenzorg, I had coolies to carry my 

 baggage and a horse for myself, both to be changed every 

 six or seven miles. The road rose gradually, and after the 

 hrst stage the hills closed in a little on each side, forming 

 a broad valley; and the temperature was so cool and 



