244 



CELEBES, 



{chap. ITIl 



sftnii -fortified houses were disused, and undei the direction 

 of tlie " Control lours" most of the houses were rebuilt 

 on a neat and uuifoi in ph\Ti. It was this interesting district 

 which I was now ahout to visit 



Having decidf^l on my route, I started at 8 A.M. on the 

 22d of June. Mr. Tower drove rae the first three miles 

 iit his cluuse, and Mr. Neys accompanied me on liorseback 

 tliree miles further to the village of Lotta. Here we met 

 the Controlleur of the district of Tonddiio, who was return- 

 ing home from one of his monthly tour.«5, and who had 

 agreed to act a.s my guide and companion on the journey. 

 From Lottii we liad an almost continual ascent for six 

 miles, which brought us on to the plateau of Tondano at 

 an elevation of about 2,400 feet. We passed through three 

 vilhiges whose neatness and beauty quite astonished me. 

 The main road, alont; which all the coflbe is brought down 

 from the interior in cartas drawn by buffaloes, is always 

 turned aside at the entrance of a village, so as to pass 

 bt^hind it, and thus allow the vilhtge street itself to be kept 

 neat and clean. This is bordered by neat hedges often 

 formed entirely of rose-trees^ whieli are perpetually in 

 blossom. There is a broad ccntnil path and a border of fine 

 turf, which is kept well swept and neatly cut. The bonsea 

 are all of wood, raised ahout six feet on substantial [>03ts 

 neatly painted blue, while the walls art whitewashed. They 

 all have a verandah enclosed with a neat balustmde, and are 

 generally surrounded Ity orange-trees and flowering shrubs. 

 The surrounding scenery is verdant and pieturepquc. 

 Coffee plantations of extreme luxuriance, noble piilms and 

 tree ferns, wooded hills and volcanic peaks, everywhere 

 meet the eye. 1 had heard much of the beauty of this 

 country, but the reality far surpassed my expectations. 



About one o'clock we reached Tomohdln, the chief place 

 of a district, having a native chief now called the " Major," 

 at whose house we were to dine. Here was a fresh surprise 

 for me. The house was large, airy and very substantially 

 built of liard native timber, squared and put together in a 

 most workmanlike manner. It was furnished in European 

 style, with handsome chandelier lamps, and the chairs and 

 tables all well made by native workmen. As soon as w^o 

 entered, madeira and bitters were oJTered ns. Then two 



