SPECIALLY- GROWN CALIFORNIA BULBS 11 
Culture of Calochorti 
IN CALIFORNIA 
Let Llic bed bo slightly raised, with the ilrainn-e perfect. A raise uf three inches with 
a sliglit slope will assure this. 
Soil. No fresh manure must be used, luit any loam will do. although sandy loam best 
meets the needs of the greater number of species. Still, clay loam, gritty soil, or even adobe, 
if lightened with sand, grit, spent tanbark or leaf-mold will give good results. 
If only a few dozen arc grown, it is really better to plant them in a Hat box, when lo 
inches of soil is ample 
TiAri'. TO Plant. Plant as soon after October i as possible, and not later than Jan- 
uary I. 
Depth to Plant. Two to 2's inches is ample. 
Distance yVpAirr. They will thrive 2 inches apart each way. 
Water. During our winter and early sjiring the rains are suflicient, but if the late spring 
is dry, keep the ground barely moist after .\pril r, and water liberally when the buds show 
for bloom. 
Caue of Bulbs after Floukuixc. If the bed can be left dry all summer, do not dig 
the bulbs, and they will come up again in the fall. They should not be watered during the 
summer, and if the bed is where watering is done, it is better to dig the bulbs and store them 
without iiacking material in paper bags, in an\- dry. cool place. One advantage of planting 
in a box is tliat the liox can be put in a dr\- place and the bulbs left undisturbed. \ box 2x3 
feet will hold 50 or 75 bidbs. 
GOPIIKKS. 'I'hese troublesome rodents are very fond of Calochortus bulbs as well as 
of Tulips. If Ihey cannot be poisoned or trapped, they can be ke|)t out in .several other 
ways. I have found thai an underground fence made of 2-inch planks set 2 feet deep with 
an inch al)o\ e the sufrace will keep them out. Another method is to make a fence of wire 
screening under ground. This can be had 2 or 3 feet wide. Still another good way is to 
make a large sunken box, with only the top of the side boards showing above the ground; 
\o inches is deep enough. Such a box can have a bottom of wire mesh or roofing tin. 
IN EASTERN UNITED STATES 
Calochorti will endure the coldest weather in the eastern United States, but suffer front 
premature thawing followed by freezing. 
(i.) In Open Ground. Miss U., fixing along the Hudson river, has been successful 
every year with many varieties. She writes: 
"I have again had splendid success with my Californian bulbs, and have ilowered every 
one. I have planted the first of November in rather sandy soil. 'J'he bed is well drained and 
in quite a sheltered s|)ot. It gets the full sun until about three o'clock in the afternoon. 
Before the ground freezes hard, I have given it three or four inches of dried leaves. These 
have been removed in the spring when all danger of heavy frost is o\'er. 
"I have found it a good jilan to have a few leaves around the shoots for a while and 
to keep some extra leaves at hand at night when the frost threatens. In this way, I have 
succeeded delightfully with the Venustus varieties, the Globe Tulips and Gunnisoni. 
My bed of Erythroniums was a perfect success. The Globe Tulips always give a good ac- 
count of themselves." 
(2.) In Coldframes. With any ordinary care, all Calochorti can be grown splendidly 
in coldframes. They should be treated exactly as for open beds, except the soil will be better 
with some leaf-mold. Do not coddle, but simply protect from freezing and thawing. After 
ripening, keep the sashes on all summer so that they will stay dry. 
I have glowing reports from customers who have grown them this way. 
(3.) In Pots. While they cannot be forced much, they can be grown in pots fairly 
well as follows: Use a sandy or loamy soil with good drainage. Plant 1 to 2 inches apart, 
which will give six to twelve to a 6-inch pot. Moisten the soil and put the pot in a dark 
place, a cellar preferred, for about six weeks, lo let them root. Then bring into a warm, sunny 
place and water moderately. After llowcring, let them ripen well and then dry off and leave 
perfectly dry until fall. 
