72 JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



gales in tins part of the country do some damage, it is well 

 known that if plants are exposed to the first rays of the morning 

 smi when they are frozen they will suffer, but if they are shaded 

 until they are gradually thawed by the rising temperature of the 

 air, they will stand a few degrees with impunity. An orchard 

 open to the east or south-east is almost sure to suffer after an 

 attack of spring frost when in full flower or setting, whereas one 

 with a western aspect, which does not receive the sun until the 

 temperature has risen and dispelled the frost, often sets and 

 carries full crops to maturity. Hardly a year passes in which the 

 gardener does not find early crops of all kinds are safer and finer 

 upon west borders than upon others, therefore I think few will 

 deny that his experience is of great value to the planter. The 

 site, I may say, should be above the line of fog, and it should 

 not be too near or on a level with water. If naturally drained 

 much time and expense will be saved, otherwise this operation 

 must be well carried out as a preliminary preparation. This may 

 be performed in two ways, viz., by trenching two spits deep for 

 pyramids or bushes, or by taking out large circular stations on 

 grass or arable land for standards. If trenching is decided upon, 

 the bottom spit, if heavy and inferior, should not be brought to 

 the surface, but it may be ameliorated by the addition of burnt 

 clay from the drains, by road scrapings, or any other fresh friable 

 material short of rich animal manure. This, unless the staple 

 be very poor, I would keep back for use as a mulch after the trees 

 are planted. On all ordinary loams young trees grow fast enough 

 at first, but the time comes when they must be fed, otherwise 

 they cannot be expected to yield year after year fruit of the 

 finest quality. 



In the preparation of stations for standards on grass or 

 tillage ground, I would throw off the top spit nine feet in diame- 

 ter, break up the bottom, and throw out clay or bad material to 

 be carted away or burned. If cold and at all unfavourable to 

 root growth, exposure of the soil for a few weeks or months would 

 greatly improve its quality. Otherwise, after correcting the 

 bottom spit, that thrown off first, turf included, with anything 

 in the way of road scrapings or old lime rubble added, may be 

 chopped in until the hole is quite full, or a little above the general 

 ground level. A stout stake should then be driven down to the 

 solid bottom as a support for the tree when planted. 



Planting may be performed at any time from the beginning, 

 of October up to the end of April. Autumn, however, is best, 

 as the roots at once take to the soil, and the trees make a fair 

 growth the following summer. October and November undoubt- 

 edly are the best months, that is, provided the land is in perfect 

 condition and the weather favourable ; but so important is 

 getting the trees into the ground when it is fairly warm and dry, 

 that I would rather defer planting until April than risk placing 



