612 



RED SURMULLET. 



are reported to have been sometimes given; though 

 it is probable that the high estimation in which it 

 was held by the ancient Greeks and Romans was 

 more owing to a prejudice entertained on account 

 of its elegant appearance, than to its real merit as 

 a food. The Romans practised a singular refine- 

 ment in luxury by first bringing the fish alive to 

 the table in a glass vessel, in order that the guests 

 might enjoy the pleasure of contemplating the 

 beautiful changes of its evanescent colours during 

 the time of its gradual expiration •> after which it 

 was prepared for their repast*. 



* Mullum expirantem versicolori quadam et numerosa spectari, 

 proceres gulae narrant, rubentium squamarum multiplici mutation© 

 pallescentium, utique si vitro spectetur inclusus. 



Plin. lib, g. cap. 17. 



Ad hunc fastum pervenere ventres delicatorum, ut gustare non 

 possint piscem, nisi quern in ipso convivio natantem palpitantem- 

 que viderint. Quanto ad solertiam luxuriae plures eunt, tanto 

 subtilius quotidie et elegantius excogitat furor, usitata contemnens : 

 ilia audiebamus nihil esse melius saxatili Mullo : at nunc audimus, 

 nihil est moriente formosius. Da mihi in manus vas vitreum in 

 quo exultet, in quo trepidet : ubi multum diuque laudatus in illo 

 perlucido vivario extrahitur, tunc ut quisque peritior est monstrat. 

 Vide quomodo exarserit rubor omni acrior minio ! vide quas per 

 latera venas agat ! ecce ! sanguinem putes ventrem ! quam 

 lucidum quiddam caeruleumque sub ipso tempore effulsit ! jam 

 porrigitur et pallet, et in unum colorem componitur ! 



Seneca* 



