﻿96 
  [Assembly 
  

  

  shirt 
  the 
  Gd-kd 
  was 
  laid 
  aside 
  ; 
  and 
  soon 
  afterwards 
  blankets 
  of 
  

   skin 
  gave 
  place 
  to 
  those 
  of 
  woolen, 
  which 
  were 
  supplied 
  by 
  the 
  

   traders. 
  At 
  a 
  later 
  period 
  the 
  pantaloon 
  was 
  substituted 
  for 
  the 
  

   leggin, 
  and 
  the 
  woolen 
  blanket 
  was 
  made 
  into 
  a 
  frock 
  coat. 
  The 
  

   ancient 
  Iroquois 
  male 
  costume 
  is 
  now 
  retained 
  only 
  as 
  an 
  apparel 
  

   for 
  the 
  dance. 
  The 
  kilt 
  is 
  of 
  modern 
  introduction 
  among 
  them, 
  

   and 
  never 
  was 
  used 
  except 
  in 
  the 
  dance. 
  At 
  an 
  early 
  day, 
  when 
  

   the 
  Gd-kdwa,s 
  in 
  universal 
  use, 
  the 
  kilt 
  was 
  not 
  even 
  worn 
  for 
  this 
  

   purpose. 
  It 
  is 
  difficult 
  to 
  determine 
  from 
  whom 
  it 
  came, 
  but 
  it 
  

   has 
  become 
  the 
  favorite 
  part 
  of 
  their 
  dancing 
  costume. 
  The 
  kilt 
  

   shown 
  in 
  the 
  plate, 
  is 
  a 
  superb 
  specimen 
  made 
  of 
  white 
  buckskin 
  

   embroidered 
  with 
  bead 
  work. 
  It 
  is 
  secured 
  around 
  the 
  waist 
  by 
  

   a 
  belt, 
  and 
  falls 
  down 
  to 
  the 
  knees. 
  The 
  plate 
  itself 
  will 
  super- 
  

   sede 
  the 
  necessity 
  of 
  any 
  description 
  ; 
  making 
  it 
  only 
  necessary 
  

   to 
  add, 
  that 
  this 
  article 
  is 
  of 
  Seneca 
  manufacture. 
  

  

  Got-ko-on-da 
  Gise-ha, 
  or 
  deer 
  skin 
  leggin. 
  

  

  No. 
  23. 
  Plate 
  10. 
  

  

  This 
  leggin 
  is 
  a 
  pure 
  Indian 
  article 
  made 
  after 
  the 
  antique 
  fash- 
  

   ion. 
  It 
  is 
  made 
  of 
  broAvn 
  colored 
  deer 
  skin 
  tanned 
  in 
  the 
  Indian 
  

   manner, 
  designed 
  to 
  set 
  tight 
  to 
  the 
  skin, 
  and 
  to 
  rise 
  above 
  the 
  

   knee. 
  Upon 
  the 
  projecting 
  edge, 
  which 
  is 
  worn 
  in 
  front, 
  a 
  por- 
  

   cupine 
  quill 
  border 
  is 
  worked 
  in 
  the 
  ancient 
  style. 
  This 
  leggin 
  

   is 
  a 
  reproduction 
  of 
  that 
  worn 
  before 
  the 
  kilt 
  came 
  into 
  use, 
  when 
  

   the 
  leggin 
  rose 
  higher 
  than 
  at 
  present. 
  

  

  Ah-ta-qua-o-weh, 
  or 
  moccasin. 
  

  

  No. 
  31. 
  Plate 
  11. 
  

  

  0-ha-da, 
  or 
  porcupine 
  quill. 
  

  

  No. 
  lOD. 
  Plate 
  14. 
  No. 
  1. 
  

  

  Both 
  the 
  male 
  and 
  female 
  moccasin 
  were 
  introduced 
  in 
  the 
  last 
  

   report; 
  but 
  they 
  were 
  chiefly 
  embroidered 
  with 
  bead 
  work. 
  The 
  

   moccasin 
  represented 
  in 
  the 
  plate 
  is 
  such 
  a 
  beautiful 
  specimen 
  of 
  

   porcupine 
  quill 
  work, 
  tliat 
  it 
  will 
  justify 
  an 
  equal 
  illustration. 
  

   The 
  porcupine 
  (Gd-ha-dd) 
  is 
  covered 
  with 
  a 
  species 
  of 
  quill 
  per- 
  

   fectly 
  round, 
  without 
  down 
  or 
  feather, 
  and 
  terminating 
  in 
  a 
  sharp 
  

   point. 
  The 
  smcill 
  quills 
  are 
  from 
  one 
  to 
  four 
  inches 
  in 
  length, 
  and 
  

   are 
  white 
  with 
  the 
  exception 
  of 
  the 
  tip 
  ends 
  or 
  about 
  one 
  fifth 
  of 
  

   the 
  quills, 
  which 
  are 
  of 
  a 
  dark 
  brown 
  color, 
  and 
  give 
  to 
  the 
  ani- 
  

  

  