80 JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



watering must be done, do it thoroughly, and afterwards maintain a 

 dry soil mulch by stirring the surface. 



In glasshouse cultivation take the utmost care in compounding the 

 earth, whether for border or pots. In handbooks on the cultivation of 

 special plants we are instructed to use so much loam, so much of this and 

 that. How often does the cultivator consider whether the substances 

 which he has fully arswer to those which the writer had in his mind's 

 eye? Obviously if one factor varies the whole will do so, unless in the 

 unlikely coincidence that another exactly counterbalances it. Com- 

 pound earth so as to carry the plant as long as possible in a healthy 

 condition. When feeding is necessary, let it be in accordance with the 

 individual plant's requirements. The ability to ascertain these requires 

 knowledge; the operation is really easy, and c.an be done at much 

 less expense than that usually incurred. Suppose you have carnations 

 or strawberries near maturation which you arc desirous of feeding. 

 The plants are not all quite uniform; some are less thriving than 

 others. There are reasons for these variations, and the reason is plain 

 to those who can decipher it. Those of us who study the capabilities 

 of soil for particular purposes know that the appearances and pecu- 

 liarities of the natural growth of plants upon it supply some of the best 

 hints available in forming an opinion. In the same way, the individual 

 cultivator should endeavour to know exactly the normal colour of the 

 foliage and general appearance of each variety or strain of plant, and 

 any variation therefrom his trained eye should detect at once. By 

 prompt attention unthriftiness in the individual may be rectified and 

 disease stopped in its earliest stage. This, of course, requires con- 

 tinuous alertness, keen observation, expert knowledge, prompt action. 



For feeding plants, especially those in pots approaching maturation, 

 give first a watering with ordinary water; then, about half an hour 

 afterwards, while the soil is still near tlie maximum state of wetness 

 and therefore in such a condition that a dissolved substance will diffuse 

 through the moistened soil (like ink on a wet surface), go round 

 with about an ounce of saltpetre (nitrate of potash) dissolved in a 

 gallon of water, and give a few drops to each plant, except those which 

 have very green foliage; these should be missed. If the fructification 

 appears to require strengthening, an equal amount of phosphate of 

 potash — which can now be obtained cheaply — may be added; or, 

 better, apply them separately either the same day or another, for not 

 infrequently it will be found that some plants require one substance, 

 but not the other. This method sounds complicated, but in practice 

 it is simple, economical, and takes very little time. Err on the side 

 of giving too little, rather than too much. I advise cultivators to 

 occasionally dissolve a crystal or two of ferrous sulphate and add a few 

 drops to sickly plants which do not respond to ordinary treatment, 

 especially when there is a " chlorotic " appearance. This is seldom 

 necessary, but occasionally the effect is almost magical. So are also the 

 effects of lime-water, especially when the soil has been soured by acid 

 substances. Try an odd plant or two first, until experience is gained. 



