HOW TO BUILD A SMALL ROCE: GARDEN. 



333 



like stepping-stones. The path should lead out at either end through 

 elongated mounds, sinking gradually down to the level. There may, of 

 course, be rock gardens of other shapes, as, for instance, a flat rock 

 garden varied with mounds or knolls here and there. In this case it is 

 difficult to make the mounds look as if they had any reason for their 

 existence, and it is wisest, perhaps, to make the rock garden frankly 

 artificial. A mound of irregularly built rock- work rising up out of an 

 ordinary herbaceous garden is apt to look incongruous, but a charming 

 effect may be produced by a raised oblong piece of ground enclosed in 

 low walls, say, about 3 feet high, with a nearly fiat rocky space on the 

 lop, if it IS rightly placed. If you must have a rock garden close to a 

 house, this is the kind to have. The enclosing walls make it harmonize 

 with the regular masonry of the house, and the rocks on the slightly 

 rounded top need not be obtrusive, and will enable you to grow many 

 beautiful rock plants. I have seen such a little rock garden running 

 parallel with the side of the house, with a path between them that 

 looked both formal and natural, for there complete informality would 

 have been incongruous. I can imagine, though I have never seen, a 

 combination of rock garden and Dutch garden that would be very 

 beautiful, formal in its main plan, in its walls, -and in the shape of the 

 beds, but those beds all filled with rock plants thriving among unob- 

 trusive rock- work and looking far better than in a mere chaos of stones. 

 One might not grow the most difficult plants, perhaps, in such a rock 

 garden, but, after all, a rock garden is most successful when it is 

 beautiful and agrees well with its surroundings. I have seen many 

 ambitious rock gardens which failed in both respects. 



I come now to the rock- work itself. If that is not rightly built, 

 design and plants are alike wasted. For the building of rock- work I 

 can only lay down some general principles, all of which the experienced 

 gardener will no doubt violate in particular cases. But the beginner, 

 if he will follow them, will avoid some common and fatal errors. Some 

 of them are, or ought to be, obvious ; but I mention them because I have 

 often seen them violated in ambitious rock gardens with disastrous 

 results. 



In the first place, the main rocks, especially if the rock garden is 

 of any size, should be as large as possible. I always wish mine were 

 larger, but they have to be no bigger than I can safely handle by myself 

 or with the help of one gardener. With these large rocks the main lines 

 of the rock garden should be laid out. Smaller rocks can be fitted in 

 afterwards where necessary. Needless to say, the rocks should vary 

 in shape and none should look too geometrical. Thin flat rocks of the 

 shape of paving-stones are almost useless, except as paving-stones. I 

 myself use Bargate sandstone that sometimes splits into awkward spiky 

 shapes, but otherwise is good enough for most purposes. The most 

 useful rocks are those which can be sunk some way into the soil and 

 •yet will show a good bold surface above it. Most people, of course, 

 will prefer to get their rocks from the nearest quarry that provides 

 decent ones, whatever the kind of rock may be. 



VOL. XXXVI. Z 



