THE FUCHSIA : ITS HISTORY AND CULTIVATION. 



147 



With folding-doors at both ends and windows at the sides, 

 ventilation was at all times an easy matter, and the temperature 

 uniform. No hot, scorching sun, so inimical to the Fuchsia 

 under glass, could reach the plants, save in a subdued and 

 modified form. It was here that I first cultivated Fuchsias in large 

 pots to decorate the terraces which surrounded the conservatory, 

 F. fitlgens being largely used. At the present time, decorative 

 plants being so varied and numerous, and plant-houses of so 

 totally different a style, rivals have, in many instances, sup- 

 planted the Fuchsia, save those grown in pots for the embellish- 

 ment of the conservatory. And so it has come to pass that the 

 Fuchsia does not hold such a prominent position generally as it 

 did in the olden time. 



To give cultural directions would seem almost superfluous, 

 as the whole matter has been so frequently treated of. I may, 

 however, just mention that the Fuchsia may be treated as an 

 annual with the greatest success, and good blooming plants 

 obtained in five or six months — aye, and many other plants 

 may also be similarly manipulated ; but, having been a raiser of 

 Fuchsias for upwards of thirty years, it may not be out of place 

 if I briefly detail my practice. 



If the object be to raise seedlings of a distinct character, for 

 the purpose of obtaining improved forms of flower and habit of 

 growth it is absolutely essential to hybridise between such 

 existing varieties as are likely to bring about a happy and 

 satisfactory issue, care being taken that no foreign intruder 

 intervenes to spoil the work. Plants with large flowers, but 

 with a weak, spindly habit, may thus be improved on by using 

 pollen from a robust habited plant. Strong growers may be 

 rendered less strong and weak growers less weak. In raising 

 the seedlings care should be taken that the seed is fully ripe. 

 My practice has always been to smash the berry on the palm of the 

 hand, and then pick out the seeds with the point of a knife ; it 

 is then placed on paper, and when dry put into small packets, 

 labelled, and put by in a box till required for sowing. My prac- 

 tice is to sow about the middle of February, in well-drained pots 

 or pans, and sometimes in shallow boxes. These are divided 

 into compartments, according to the number required, and the 

 little beds are subdivided by means of thin slips of wood. Each 

 little bed is then labelled, the numbers corresponding with the 



