ROOT PRUNING OF FRUIT-TREES. 



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easily operated on, their masses of roots giving the operator no 

 trouble to examine, and even large trees may be lifted outright 

 with advantage early in October. If this is not done, a mass of 

 strong shoots will form at the upper part of the wall, tending to 

 weaken and destroy the lower and more fertile boughs, while 

 the Greengage class will amply repay attention by producing 

 more fruit, and that of higher quality. Pyramidal, cordon, and 

 columnar Plums may safely be lifted whenever the wood growth 

 is excessive, but while they remain fertile they are best left alone. 



Cherries.— These require very careful handling, whether on 

 the Mahaleb or free stock, as they naturally form very coarse 

 roots, and therefore suffer severely on the loss of support from 

 them. Where it is desired to keep them in check, as in upright 

 cordons or pyramids, they should be lifted every year and have 

 extra care in replanting, and receive a free use of the syringe 

 after the operation. Those of the Morello and Duke race succeed 

 best under this treatment. The Heart and Bigarreau section 

 make very strong wood, and any undue severity in pruning either 

 tops or roots will produce gumming, and often destruction of the 

 trees. It is said that early winter pruning is best, as it helps 

 to prevent the flow of sap in spring which leads up to gumming. 



I am fully aware that the demand on the gardener's time in 

 September and October is often so heavy that he can rarely find 

 opportunity for carrying out a systematic root-pruning, but I 

 may remark that it ought to be a part of the regular routine 

 work in a garden ; wet days could be utilised for the indoor 

 trees, and a little extra help might profitably be imported for 

 an operation which saves time in summer and produces such 

 evident results. 



I have said little as to the application of manure to newly 

 root-pruned trees. Where the operation has been severe I would 

 advise a good mulching to be applied, but not otherwise, as it 

 tends to obstruct the sun's rays. Warm soil is essential to 

 an early recovery after the mutilation of the principal roots. I 

 prefer to water very heavily in May, when the roots are active, 

 following this with a good manurial mulch, either of stable 

 dung fresh from the yard, or by the application of liquid manure 

 direct, or watering-in any of the usual artificial stimulants, as 

 Ichthemic Guano, Thomson's Vine Manure, or such like aids. 



I ought also to say that only half a crop should be taken the 



