390 JOURNAL OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY. 



being taken when lifting them from the sand to avoid breaking the 

 young roots. Pot in a compost which I give at the end of the paper 

 for first potting. One crock only is necessary in each pot at this 

 potting, and the soil should not be over-firm in the pots. As soon as 

 potted, stand the plants in a nice growing-house with a day temperature 

 of 50° and keep them growing, and on no account allow the plants 

 to get hard ; one sees so much young stuff ruined at this stage owing 

 to the plants getting over-hard. At the same time do not keep a 

 moist heat, or put on too much heat, and get the plants weedy. 



When the pots are beginning to get filled with roots and the young 

 plants are growing, but not before, say about three or four v/eeks after 

 potting, they should have their first stop by pulling out the centre at 

 the fourth joint above the pot. This is best done by taking the pot 

 in the left hand, holding the stem with the first finger and thumb of 

 the same hand at the joint required, and pulling out the centre with 

 the right hand. 



As soon as nice young growths are being made after the stopping, 

 but not before, the next potting should be done. If they are autumn- 

 struck cuttings use large 60 pots, and then pot them an extra time 

 later into 54s or 48s ; if spring-struck cuttings, use a 54 pot, or, if 

 strong enough, a 48 pot, a compost as suggested at the end of the 

 paper for the second potting being used. At this potting crock the 

 pot with a large crock in the bottom and five or six small pieces. 



Still keep the plants growing, and at this stage it will be necessary 

 to put a small stick to each plant, about 6 inches long, and give a tie. 



Stopping must still be continued as soon as sufficient growth is 

 made, in the same manner as described before. 



In May the final potting should be done — putting those which 

 are in 54 pots into 32 pots, and those in 48 pots into 24 pots — using 

 the compost at the end of the paper for final potting. The drainage 

 is most important, so at this potting use a big crock covered with small 

 ones to a depth of an inch or an inch and a half. 



The plants may now be put into their summer quarters, which 

 may be either a cold airy frame, cold house, or a coal-ash bottom in 

 the open. If the district is not a damp one, but is a nice dry, open 

 country, and not in or near a town, the open is best ; but if it is 

 damp, near a river, or in or near a town, then either the cold 

 house or the frame is better, and in a very wet summer this is the 

 better plan. 



Stopping should be continued until sufficient breaks have been 

 made about the end of July ; but if very early flowers are wanted it 

 must be discontinued earlier, and in some varieties earlier than others. 

 Much depends upon how the plants have grown and at what time the 

 first flower is required as a guide to the last stopping. 



Watering should always be done with care, and never over the head 

 of the plant. At no stage should the soil become water-logged. It is 

 better to keep rather on the dry side than to overdo the use of the 

 water-can, but when the can is used give a good watering and not a 



