SALADS AND SALAD-MAKING. 



303 



" artful mixture of mustard, oil, and vinegar, with or without the 

 addition of hard-boiled yolks of new-laid eggs, carefully rubbed into the 

 dressing," was all sufficient. The mayonnaise sauce of a later period 

 was, of course, unknown to him. A point that Evelyn strongly in- 

 sisted upon was the composition of tlie salad-bowl. To pour an 

 acetous dressing into a metal bowl, whether silver or pewter, was an 

 outrage in the eyes of this authority upon salad-making. The only 

 possible bowl to use, he averred, should be one of " porcelaine or of 

 Holland Delft Ware." 



Evelyn's list of admissible " saladings " exceeded Geraed's many 

 times, and included daisies (blossoms and leaves), gillyflowers, nastur- 

 tiums, thistles, vine tendrils, tulip bulbs, daffodil buds, &c. 



To come down now to modern salad-making. Everyone knows 

 what a welcome accessory salads are — green and otherwise — to the 

 dinner or supper table, and given a light hand and some sense of 

 artistic arrangement, they are very little trouble to prepare. A 

 popular delusion is abroad that salads can only be obtained in the 

 summer-time when green food is plentiful, whereas any kind of 

 vegetables, raw or cooked, may be added or substituted in their proper 

 season, and the result is still called by the catholic name of salad. 



We have in these days narrowed our list of salad-herbs v ry 

 materially, and the foundation ingredients for salad-making are now 

 obtained chiefly from lettuce, endive, chicory, cress, water-cress, corn 

 salad, sorrel, spinach, and cucumber, but to any of these may be added 

 cooked potatos, cooked cauliflower sprigs, celery, beetroot, tomatos, 

 chives, cooked asparagus tips, cooked artichoke bottoms, cardoons, 

 mushrooms, cooked peas, and cooked beans, the whole being frequently 

 fortified in these days of non-flesh diet by nuts, cheese, eggs, and 

 pulses, or by meat-eaters with flaked cooked fish and finely shredded 

 meat, cooked game, or poultry. 



Salads vary according to the fashion of different countries. A true 

 French salad consists of but one kind of vegetable in addition to the 

 herbs used, whilst a Eussian salad is noted for its variety of mixed 

 vegetables. The following is a recipe for a typical French salad: — 



Eemove all the outer leaves of two good cos- or three cabbage- 

 lettuces, and cut off the stalks quite close, and wash in cold water. 

 Dry them well after draining them thoroughly in the salad-basket and 

 break up the leaves small. Now beat together in a basin four table- 

 spoonfuls oi best olive oil, with two tablespoonfuls of either plain 

 Orleans wine or tarragon-vinegar wine, and a good pinch of black 

 pepper and salt to taste. Then lay in the lettuce, and turn it well 

 about in the mixture, adding a little very finely-minced green spring 

 onions or chives, and very little chopped green tarragon and chervil. 

 Keep tossing it altogether till the salad has absorbed the dressing, and 

 is equally saturated with it. Then lift it out of the basin and put 

 it into the salad-bowl containing a piece of toasted bread which has 

 previously been rubbed over with a cut clove of garlic. This salad is 

 ''ailed Salade Romaine il cos-lettuce is used, and Salade de Laitue if 



