SALADS AND SALAD-MAKING. 



305 



pepper should be dissolved in the vinegar before the oil is added. If 

 oil is very strongly objected to, it can of course be omitted and a 

 dressing made of the vinegar only, seasoned with pepper, salt, and 

 castor sugar to taste, varied occasionally with salad cream. Finely 

 shredded bacon fried crisp and mixed with salad is also admitted as a 

 good substitute for oil. The cheaper salad-dressings are composed 

 mainly of oil, vinegar, mustard, and milk, varied by hard-boiled yolk 

 of egg and a little cream, the richer or mayonnaise dressings being 

 made with raw yolks and the usual concomitants. Vinaigrette sauce 

 is sometimes substituted, consisting of vinegar, oil, and chopped 

 gherkins, capers, parsley, and shallots. 



In conclusion, for those who would fain pursue the subject of salads 

 more intimately, I would recommend them to study the compilation of 

 M. Suzanne, who is an authority upon the varieties of the modern 

 salad. Every possible variation upon the theme finds its place in hiS' 

 book, which contains over two hundred salad recipes. 



Not so long ago I came across an article on salad cultivation in this 

 country, which showed that French lettuces are much superior to 

 English, and our salad cultivation was severely criticized. This is 

 scarcely surprising, as anyone who has given the smallest consideration 

 to the matter must admit that this class of market-gardening in 

 England is much behind the French. The salads which reach our 

 markets from France are all carefully grown on tiers of platforms or 

 ledges at some distance from the ground, and under shelter, mostly 

 of glass, being thus kept safe from incursions of slugs, as well as pro- 

 tected by other means against the attack of all insects whatsoever. 

 They are carefully and neatly packed, and come to market in perfect 

 condition, thus giving little trouble to the cook when falling under his 

 or h6r hands. French cos- or cabbage-lettuce is decidedly more tasty 

 and tender than the English product. It may be worth while for 

 English salad-growers to study the French system of cultivation. 



A Few Simple Salad Recipes. 

 Lettuce Salad. 



Trim and wash thoroughly three cabbage- or two cos-lettuces, drain 

 them well, and break the leaves into convenient-sized pieces. Prepare 

 a dressing with finely chopped garden cress, tarragon, chervil, three 

 yolks of hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a fine sieve, three tablespoon- 

 fuls of salad oil, one of wine vinegar, and a little French mustard. Work 

 all until smooth, and add to the lettuce. Mix carefully, and serve. 



Mixed Salad. 



Trim two cabbage-lettuces and one endive, rinse in cold water, drain 

 them thoroughly, then break the leaves into small pieces and put them 

 into a salad bowl. Place some finely shredded celery and slices of 

 cooked beetroot neatly arranged on the top. Season with salt and 

 ■pepper, and with salad-dressing mixed with a small quantity of cream 

 in addition to the usual ingredients. 



VOL. XXXVII. X 



