34 THE BAY STATE NURSERIES, NORTH ABINGTON, MASS. 
Rose Frau Karl Druschki (See page 37) 
When to 
Plant. 
Location. 
HARDY ROSES 
Planting and After Culture. 
Dormant plants should be planted in the early spring, which will insure bloom the first season. If 
the location is not exposed, we would recommend late fall planting, with some winter protection, as 
advised in instructions under "Protection." 
Roses thrive in any rich soil, which is well drained, (they will not thrive in very wet soil), 
should always be planted in an open, sunny exposure, giving them all the sunlight possible. 
They 
Prepara- The soil must be well pulverized to a depth of ten to twelve inches, and thoroughly mixed with 
tion of manure; cow-manure is the best; but well-rotted horse-manure will give good results. It is better 
Soil. to prepare the ground or bed in the fall ready for planting early the following spring. 
Planting Before planting the bushes should be pruned somewhat. Most varieties of roses are budded on 
and wild-rose stocks, and should be planted so that the junction of the bud with the stock will be three 
Pruning inches below the level of the soil; firmly tread the earth about the bushes after planting, and thor- 
oughly soak the ground with water, then the following day loosen the top soil of the bed with a rake. 
We advise a good mulch of coarse strawy-manure about the plants the first season until they are 
established. 
Protection. All Hybrid Roses give better results if protected in the winter. The use of coarse manure, leaves or 
evergreen boughs, as a light covering about the plants, will accomplish the purpose. This should 
be removed in the early spring. <: 
Insect Rose Beetle. — This insect is usually found in the petals and buds of the choicest plants, selecting by 
Enemies. preference the light colored varieties, and works havoc whenever it appears. Hand picking is the 
only effective remedy. 
Aphis or Greenfly. — This is found on the extreme ends of the shoots and young buds. The aphis 
increases with enormous rapidity and robs the plant of its vitality by sucking out the sap. It can be 
exterminated by spraying with tobacco water or kerosene emulsion. For the emulsion use ordinary 
soap, and make strong soap-suds and add thereto one part of kerosene to nineteen parts of the suds. 
In extreme cases where the aphis has become firmly established, take four ounces of quassia chips 
and boil ten minutes in a gallon of water; strain and while cooling dissolve in it four ounces of soft 
soap. To this may be added another gallon or two of water; syringe: the plants with this solution, 
and dip all badly infested shoots in the solution. Pure water should follow the next day to cleanse: 
the shoot. I 
Slugs — These are usually found on the under side of the leaves, and may be discovered by the 
skeletonized appearance of the leaf. To destroy them make a solution using one heaping table- 
spoonful of powdered white hellebore to four gallons of boiling water; after cooling apply with a 
syringe, or better with a whisk-broom. Push the top of the plant with the left hand, and with the 
broom dipped in the solution, throw the contents up and against the leaves. 
Rose Mildew. — To prevent mildew dust the plant with powdered sulphur, or spray them with Bor- 
deaux mixture. Either of these fungicides kills the mycelium and spores of the fungus. 
If these enemies have appeared in previous years, anticipate their coming and apply the solutions before 
any mischief has been done, and repeat later should there be any evidences of them. "An ounce of prevention is 
better than a pound of cure." 
