C. C. MORSE & CO. — SEEPS — SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF. 
TABLE 
VEGETABLE SEEDS 
_ "Field Culture" "Garden Culture" 
Crop Matures Depth to For Horse Cultivation For Hand Cultivation 
(In About) Plant Put Rowa Apart Leave Plants Put Rows Apart Leave Plants Apart 
Apart in Rows in Rows 
ARTICHOKE Second spring 1" 5 ft 3 ft 3 ft ft 
Plants (Globe) . Next spring 5 g ; ; [ ; ; ; ; ; [ ; ; f g; ; ; ; ; ; ; Jg; ; \_\ {*• 
(Jerusalem) ... Late summer 2—3" 4 ft 3 ft 2 ft 1—2 ft 
ASPARAGUS (Seed) Third spring i" 1—2 ft.' in bed " 3" 1ft 3—5" 
(Plants) Next spring 3—5" 7 or 8 ft 2 or 3 ft. .' 2 ft! .15—20" 
BEANS, Bush 45-65 days )4 — 2" 24 — 30" 4" 18—24" 3 4" 
'' Pole 75 days, up 1—2" 36" 4—6" 3— 4 ft." hills.' ! .' .' 3— 4 ft. 
BEETS 65 days, up 3 A—2" 20 — 24" 6—10" 12 — 18" 2 4" 
BROCCOLI 90-120 days 30—40" 15" 24—30" 12—18" 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS ... 6 months 30—36".' .' . .' .' .' 16—24"! !!.'.' .' .24— 30"! !!!!'!' ! 16—24" 
CABBAGE 90-150 days H" 30—36" 15—18" 24—30" 12—18" 
CARROT Early Y*—%" 22—28" 4" 12—18" 2" 
CAULIFLOWER 110 days 30—36" 24—30" 24—30"! 14—18" 
CELERY 6 months X" 4 ft 6" 18—20" 6" 
CHERVIL Early %" 30—36" 4" 18—20". ...!!.!. 3—4" 
CHICORY... 4 months H" 30—36" 6—10" 18—20" 2—4" 
COLLARDS H" 30—36" 15—18" 18—20" 14—18" 
CORN SALAD 100 days )4—V 30" 4" 12—18" 2" 
CORN...... 80-100 days 1—2" 36—42" 30-46" 36" hills'.'.'. ! ! ! 24— 30" 
CUCUMBER 120 days 1—2" 6ft 4—6" 4— 6 ft 4 ft. hills 
DANDELION 6 months hi — W 30" 8—12" 18—24" 8" 
EGG PLANT 160 days, up 30—36" 18—24" 24—30". . 18" 
ENDIVE 100 days J$ — 1" 30" 8 — 12" 18" 8—10" 
HORSE RADISH 8 months 4" 30 — 40" 16 — 20" 24 — 30" 14" 
KALE 45 days H" 30 — 36" 18 — 24" 18—24" 18—24" 
. or broadcast in beds 
KOHL RABI 4 months 14" 24 — 30" 4 — 8" 18" 4 — 6" 
LEEK Late summer )4" 22 — 28"... .. 5" 12 — 14" 4" 
LETTUCE 65 days, up Y<" 22" 6—12" 15—18"!! ! 4—6" 
MUSKMELON 120-140 days 1—2" 6— 8 ft 4 ft 4 to 6 ft. hills .. . 4 to 5 ft. 
WATERMELON 120-140 days 1—2" 8— 12 ft 8 to 10 ft 8 ft. hills 6 ft. 
MUSTARD Early hi" 30" 4" 12—18" 3" 
OKRA 2 Yi months 1" 4— 5 ft 24—30" 3 ft 24" 
ONION 135-150 days y 2 — 1" 22—28" 5" 12—14" 4" 
PARSLEY Anytime hi" 24—36" 3—6" 12—18" 4" 
PARSNIP 4 months M—W 24—30" 6—8" 15" 5" 
PEAS 8 to 12 weeks 2—4" 24—36" 3—4" 14 and 36" 2" 
PEPPER 130-150 days hi" 24—36" 15—18" 18"... . 14" 
POTATO, Irish July to September 4—8" 3— iYx ft 12—18" 30" 18" hills 
Sweet 3" 30 — 36" 18" 30" 10" 
PUMPKIN 100-125 days 1—2" 10 ft 8 ft 8 ft. hills 8 ft. 
RADISH 30-45 days hi" 22" 2" 12—18" 1 or 1)4" 
RHUBARB Second spring 14" 6 ft 3 ft 12" 4" 
Roots Next spring 3 — 4" 6 ft 3 or 4 ft 4 ft 3 ft. 
SALSIFY 5 months...., hi — 1" 24—30" 3—4" 12—15" 2" 
SPINACH 40 to 45 days 24—30" 4—6" 12—18" 3—4" 
SQUASH S. 65 and W. 150 days 1—2" 6 to 8 ft 4— 8 ft 8 ft. hills 4 to 6 ft. 
TOMATO 150 days Y.—Yz" 6 ft 6 ft 4— 6 ft. hills . . . . 3 to 6 ft. 
TURNIP 60-75 days hi~W 22—30" 4—8" 10—18" 3—8" 
There are three terms used there, which we define as follows: 
"Early Spring," means as soon as buds in the trees begin to swell and the ground can be worked into gardening 
condition. This may be in March or April. Frosts have not passed, and such plants, if not too succulent, will 
stand a frost. 
"Spring" refers to those vegetables which are not so hardy as the above, and which are usually planted later 
because they do so much better planted later. If for any reason early planting is necessary, they can be put in 
a week after the foregoing. 
"Late Spring," is the time of the year when the ground is well warmed and all frosts are passed. This probably 
will be in May. 
"Early Summer" means planting in June and July. 
HOT-BEDS for forcing plants are best made in the following manner: Dig out a space the size of your frame 
to a depth of two feet. Into this put fresh horse manure mixed with a good deal of bedding straw to a depth of 
one foot or 18 inches. Tread this down well and on top spread 10 inches of good soil mixed with sand. The frame 
is just four sides of 1-inch board and made to slope toward the South from 18 inches at back, to 15 to 12 inches at 
front. The distance from front to back is three feet and the frame is as long as required. Put over this glazed 
sash, which can be hinged at back. This sash is raised during the day to prevent the bed over-heating and the 
plants from growing tall, spindly and weak. The sash must be white-washed or covered with a sack if the sun 
gets too hot. Sow the seed in rows from front to back and they will quickly start. Care must be taken to give 
ventilation each day or the plants will damp off, and when ready to plant out, lift the sash higher each succeeding 
day so as to harden the plants. Water most carefully. Set the frame in a sunny spot sheltered from the pre- 
vailing winds. 
For our California conditions, that is but very slight cold, the bed does not need to be so hot. Mix the fresh 
horse manure with a good amount of chaff or dry leaves so that it will be less hot. Also sow the seed in little 
boxes, about 18 by 15 inches, in prepared soil. These boxes make the plants easy to handle and the boxes can 
be raised and a board put under them if the ground becomes too hot. There is also an advantage in using cloth 
instead of glass to cover the frame as this is less liable to let the plants overheat. A cold frame is the same as a 
hot-bed plae«d on the crra ground, and in which bo horse manure has been added to give heat. This ie good to 
»*axt early cabWfr* aad the otker early vegetafeU plants except Egg Plant, Pepper and Tomato. 
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