C. C. MORSE & CO.— SEEDS— SAN FRANCISCO, CALIF. 
TREES — Continued 
MAPLE, SILVER, OR SOFT. A rapid-growing tree of 
large size; irregularly rounded form; foliage bright 
green above, silvery beneath; a favorite street and 
park tree. 6 to 7 feet, 60c each, $5.00 per 10. 
MULBERRY, DOWNING. 6 to 8 feet, 80c each. 
MOUNTAIN ASH, EUROPEAN (Rowan Tree). Flowers 
creamy white; foliage somewhat like the Pepper Tree; 
covered from August to November with large clusters 
of orange-colored berries. 5 to 6 feet, 60c each, $5.00 
per 10. 
PEACH, FLOWERING-. The double flowering varieties are 
distinguished for their showy and beautiful bloom. 
We can supply the Double White and Double Pink. 
4 to 5 feet, 60c each. 
PLUM, PURPLE-LEAVED. The young branches are very 
dark purple; the leaves when young are lustrous crim- 
son, changing to a dark purple, and retain this beau- 
tiful tint till they drop late in autumn. 4 to 6 feet, 
60c each. 
POPLAR, "BALM OP QILEAD." Of remarkably rapid and 
luxuriant growth, with large glossy foliage. 6 to 8 feet 
60c each, $5.00 per 10. 
POPLAR, LOMBARD Y. This is one of the characteristic 
trees of parts of Italy, and it is from the Italian 
province, Lombardy, that its common name is derived 
Probably a native of Asia. A very rapid, erect grow 
ing tree, with a tall, spiry form and particularly strik- 
ing and picturesque when grouped among other trep<s 
6 to 8 feet, 60c each, $5.00 per 10. 
SYCAMORE, EUROPEAN. This variety is much in de- 
mand for sidewalk planting. 6 to 8 feet, 75c each, $6 oo 
per 10. 
TEXAS UMBRELLA TREE. This is one of the handsom- 
est of deciduous shade trees, and is adapted particu- 
larly to the warm parts of this State. 4 to 6 feet eon 
each; $5.00 per 10. 
WALNUT, CALIFORNIA BLACK. One of the best shade 
trees for California; of rapid growth. 4 to 5 feet S0r> 
each, $4.00 per 10. * u 
WILLOW, BABYLON. 4 to 6 feet, 60o each, $5.00 per 10. 
FRUIT TREES AND SMALL FRUITS 
The California Cultivator (a paper devoted to horticulture in this State) submitted to us the following questions 
and asked us to give them an answer thereto. As they bear very greatly on fruit tree planting in California, and 
we receive such questions daily from intending planters, we thought we would help planters by giving the ques- 
tions and our reply. We know it will be of great assistance to the novice in fruit tree planting. 
1. How many months are included in the best planting period, 
i. e., how early may fruit trees be taken from nursery in fall and how 
late may they be planted? 
1. Late December, January, February, and early March. 
2. Where is it best to plant them, i. e., can you give a general idea 
as to planting figs, apples, pears, cherries, walnuts, peaches, and such 
other fruits? Of course, if you covered all the fruits, this would take 
too much time, but whatever information you can give is greatly 
needed by tree planters. Orchard after orchard has been set out, only 
to prove a failure because owners did not understand this question. 
2. Figs should be set out in the warmer sections, principally the 
San Joaquin and Sacramento Valleys, and the other fruits mentioned 
can be planted from Mendocino to San Diego. The intending 
planter, however, must use his own judgment about the best locations 
for each of these fruits. 
3. What age and size of tree is best? 
3. The best tree to plant out is what nurserymen call "one-year- 
old" trees; the root is a year older, so this practically makes the 
tree two years old, but nurserymen style them "one-year-old"; either 
three to four feet high or four to six feet high. 
4. How large and how deep should holes be? 
4. In sedimentary land, the hole does not require to be so very 
large, 1 % feet square will cover it. In heavier soil two feet will be 
necessary. 
5. Is it best to plant any deeper in well-prepared soil than tree 
was set in nursery? 
5. Plant a little deeper than what they were in the nursery — not 
more than one inch. 
6. Would you recommend close pruning of roots before planting 
or simply trimming mutilated ends? If you favor close trimming 
of roots, would you go to the extremes recommended in the Strinir- 
fellow method? 
:hes 
nes, 
6. We recommend medium cutting back of the roots. We would 
not go to the extreme as Mr. Stringfellow does, although we practice 
it a great deal in our nurseries when we are lining out young slock 
and have good success with it. 
7. Would you top trees, i. e., take off greater portion of top 
grown in nursery, and if so, before or after setting? Would you 
do it by exact measurement the orchard over, or according to vigor 
of trees? 
7. Trees sho-Id be pruned after planting, not before. They should 
be cut back about to 2Yz to 3% feet; peaches and almonds should 
have some of the laterals left; prune these to two or three i 
from the stem; the main stem has often blind eyes; apricots, p 
pears, apples and plums can be trimmed to single stem. 
8. If irrigation water is available, would you settle dirt about the 
trees with water or by tamping? 
8. In the drier sections it is a good idea to use irrigation to 
settle the soil around the roots after planting, but in the northern 
parts and in the Santa Clara Valley, where the rainfall is good 
during the months of January and February, this is not necessary. 
Work the soil carefully around the roots; in light soil heavier 
tamping can be done than in heavy, wet land. 
9. Would you advise use of fertilizer or manure, either in hole 
or on surface, at time of planting? 
9. In planting large orckards no fertilizing is done. 
10. Is any advantage gained by protecting trunks of newly planted 
trees from rays of sun? If so, what method is best? 
10. It is very necessary to protect the trunks of young trees 
during the first summer months, either by tulle tree protectors, 
shakes set on the sunny side, or by wrapping newspaper and tying 
with a cord. This keeps the tree from getting sunburnt and is 
certainly of great benefit to the young tree. 
Trees on the Almond Boot require to be in a deep, well- 
drained and warm soil. 
Trees on the Peach Root will «ucceed in a greater variety 
of soils; a gravelly soil, a red hill ■oil, a sandy river bot- 
tom, or a moderately heavy land. 
Suitable Soils for Fruit Trees 
Bartlett Pear 
The Myrobolan Plum Root is the best for most varieties 
of prunes and plums, but it requires a rich, moist land 
to produce the best results, and will do well in quite a 
heavy wet soil. 
The Apple and Pear require a deep, rich land, and will 
take a good deal of moisture, especially the latter. 
The Cherry 
req hires a 
deep, 
loam. 
The Apri- 
cot on Peach 
Root will 
thrive in the 
same soils as 
the peach on 
peach root: 
on its own 
root it Will 
not do so 
well in shal- 
low soil. 
What ap- 
plies to the 
peach ap- 
plies s i m i - 
larly to the 
nectarine. 
The Quince 
will grow in 
very wet 
land. 
The Wal- 
nut requires 
a very deep, 
rich land. 
Early Crawford Peach 
